This article originally appeared in the December 2015 Issue: Sustainable Seafood. Read it here!
What is it?
This is Tom Aikens’ follow up to his menu at The Pawn and it’s unsurprisingly pork-based. But perhaps the surprising thing, is just how pork-based the menu is. Pig’s head, pig’s ear, pig’s cheek, pig’s trotter, it’s top-to-tail and the only piggy thing they don’t do is a whole pig with a big round apple stowed in its mouth.
Cool neon, casual but upmarket booths, an elegant long bar and a gorgeous terrace make this new Times Square resident the chicest place to eat in the building.
The servers all wear shirts that say Kevin on the front, leading one to wonder about the commonality in Hong Kong naming these days, until you see them depart from your table with Bacon written across the back; six degrees and all that for those in the know. It’s these subtle quirks that make the place charming and gives the feeling that The Fat Pig doesn’t take itself too seriously.
The music is a confused mixture that could use a lot more consistency. We felt like our ears had whiplash from the rapid change of drum and bass, big band and jazz to what sounded like sitcom theme music.
We started off with a tin bucket brimming with crunchy pork scratchings ($25) before moving on to the next pail of fried pig’s ear ($108) that were soft, tender and extremely flavourful with a little pot of a deeply satisfying green caper sauce. The pork rillettes ($78) come with plenty of bread and a tangy chutney while the scotch egg ($38) is a perfectly cooked wonder to behold. Encased in a half-inch of sausage, this warm delight transported us back to Blighty with its flawless flavouring. The pig’s head cake ($61) has a rich and zingy interior sauce and comes served on a bed of watercress.BBQ'd sweet and sour pork ribs at the Fat Pig by Tom Aikens
Charcuterie at the Fat Pig by Tom Aikens
The sandwiches are the real heroes of the meal with the roast pork belly ($135) served atop fermented cabbage in a slightly sweet toasted brioche bun alongside our favourite, the barbecue pulled pork ($64) complete with onion rings and coleslaw. The ham hock mac 'n' cheese ($149) made a delightful accompaniment to all the pork while the pig’s trotter ($108) with caramelised onion came spread thick on toast like a jam but to be fair, we had literally pigged out too much at this point to fully appreciate the dish. The dishes are simple but labour intensive with a lot of brining, braising, simmering and elbow grease that shows in the full flavours.Pig's trotter sourdough at the Fat Pig by Tom Aikens
Barbecue pulled pork complete with onion rings and coleslaw at the Fat Pig by Tom Aikens
A somewhat strange collection of sweets that contained odes to the East. A black sesame soup with tapioca base was interesting, if not exceptionally pleasing; the almond jelly was also nice as was the mango pannacotta and chocolate brownie with lemon skin. We quite enjoyed the mini doughnut rounds with raspberry jam on the side but were so satisfied by the overall meal, we would probably forgo the dessert and focus on the mains instead.Raspberry donuts at the Fat Pig by Tom Aikens
If you thought the drinks were exempt from that porky touch, you’d be mistaken. There are plans for plenty of maple bacon laced cocktails while we sipped on the distinctive and nectarous “Bacon Red Ale" ($75), custom made for The Fat Pig by the local couple operating Moonzen brewery. We also appreciated the unpretentious wine list offering a “Good White, Good Red" ($45) and a “Better White, Better Red or Piggy Rose" ($55). Those are prices and pronouncements we can get on board with. Plus they offer still or sparkling water ($5) free flow and we like that very much.
The Fat Pig really brings home the bacon. The smell alone will draw you in.
The Fat Pig
Website or Tel: 2577 3444
Open 7 days from 5pm to 11pm and Sat and Sun for lunch from 12 noon on