Chef-Patron Filippo Bencini takes inspiration from Parma, his hometown and one of the most gastronomic cities of northern Italy, to create comforting dishes for the soul at Giando Group eatery Filo Cibo e Vino. Filo is a nickname for the chef and also a word meaning “thread” in Italian; it’s combined with cibo e vino (meaning “food and wine” in Italian) as the moniker of this authentic, laid-back Italian restaurant in SoHo.
The interior of Filo Cibo e Vino offers a cosy setting with a vintage theme, featuring dark red-wine-coloured leather seating, clean, diner-style tables, Italian prints, candles and wine-bottle-lined shelves. The lighting utilises old pans and wine crates to create a chilled atmosphere.
The creamy, deep-fried burrata (HK$258) oozes into a slightly acidic tomato-basil sauce. Crumbled Parmesan is sprinkled on top, adding a salty, nutty flavour to the rich dish.
Italian imports are highlighted as part of the authentic experience at Filo. The mixed cold cuts and cheese platter (HK$188) consists of prosciutto, mortadella, bresaola and salami alongside chunks of gorgonzola and taleggio cheeses, in-house-pickled peppers and honey. Ideal for sharing, the prosciutto and mortadella are especially irresistible.
The tagliatelle (HK$169) showcases culatello, a cured meat that’s famous in Parma. Made with pork thigh, culatello is chewier and contains less fat than prosciutto. The homemade tagliatelle was cooked to a tee on our visit. This is a relatively light, delicate pasta dish, despite its creaminess.
For a heartier dish, the braised beef in Barolo wine and polenta (HK$278) is one to consider. The slow-cooked meat is super tender, and the wine sauce is complex in flavour. Unfortunately, I wasn’t a fan of the polenta’s texture, which was far too smooth, and I also found it a bit too sweet for my liking.
Dessert is a must-try at Filo if you have room (the desserts here aren’t particularly large). The tiramisu (HK$78) – a classic Italian dessert that never goes out of style – isn’t crazy sweet nor is it overpowered by the flavour of espresso.
The white chocolate panna cotta with raspberry sauce (HK$88) is sweeter than the tiramisu, but it’s balanced by a tart concentrated raspberry sauce – what a perfect pairing!
Verdict
I’m looking forward to a return visit to Filo very soon. This restaurant is sure to become a reliable fave for casual, authentic Italian dining at prices that won’t break the bank.
Where: UG/F, Ming Hing House, 52–56 Staunton Street, SoHo, Central
For reservations: phone/WhatsApp 9250 6028 or email info@filohk.com
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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