It’s not about the bread: Taking the same name as the London version located on Bread Street, this Hong Kong version by Dining Concepts is a near carbon copy. From the black and white floor tiles, long leather booths, dark moody lighting and orange-hued pillars that give the digs an urban street-lit appeal. Down the outdoor staircase of the Hotel LKF, the large windows overlook the mayhem of Lan Kwai Fong, artfully rising above the tomfoolery, but still enjoying the dramatic appeal of it all. An elongated open kitchen is matched by a bar at the front end with the uncommon treat of an attractive (and female-dominated) cookery staff.
The vast menu will make choosing tricky: Gordon Ramsey’s Bread Street London signatures appear here with a light and citrusy sea bass carpaccio ($128), a creamy king crab cocktail ($138) and the ooey, gooey delights that are the Tamarind spiced chicken wings ($128). The short rib burger $(158) was tasty and well constructed and the steamed snapper ($208) a delicate dish both in flavour and volume. The Brits will be in heaven with a list of their nation’s favourite dishes on the menu: shepherd’s pie ($188) that uses shredded lamb, giving each bite a strong flavourful, lamby bite with a pillowy blanket of potatoes topped with a thick crust of melted cheese; fish, peas and triple-cooked chips ($198); sausage and veg ($178), and slow roasted Dingley Dell pork belly ($198) with a crispy exterior, soft, fatty interior and cubes of apple that add a crunchy zing. An oh-my-gosh-this-is-good banana sticky toffee pudding ($88) and a sweet and simple Eton mess ($78) round out the Brit list. The prices are decent for a central restaurant as long as you’re not going after the bigger ticket items like the lobster macroni cheese ($488) or the English rose veal chop ($498). A beautifully tender cote de boeuf is the priciest menu item ($888).
Liquid refreshment: Another bulky menu with a huge wine list as well as a good selection of creative cocktails to choose from that are also descriptively fun to read. Here’s an excerpt: “Love Potion No.9 – white port, lemon, raspberries, mint, champagne. If Marilyn Monroe only wore Chanel No.5 to bed, this would have been her nightcap!“
Word on the bread street: We went in with deliberately low expectations to counter the sheer size of the celebrity that is Gordon Ramsey, and we were pleased by everything. Good food, tolerable prices, lovely staff and a vibrant atmosphere – we liked it
Mezzanine Floor, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2230 1800