The restaurant comprises of 3 distinct spaces, ranging from the narrow bar area with a small breezy balcony, to the lofty dining room, to the private room lined with herbs, that could easily accommodate a group of 12. We started our lunch with bountiful plates of antipasti, ranging from cured meats to citrusy quinoa salad. The lunch sets include a starter of either the antipasti buffet or a daily soup, a choice of main and dessert, along with coffee and tea. We also sampled a duo of starters from the dinner menu, starting with the hearts of palm with red quinoa, endives, figs and pumpkin ($138), before arriving at the Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, yuzu and croutons ($198). The latter was the star of the show, and was delicate and sweet with a delectable pop of citrus from the yuzu.
Main attraction: Moving forward, the Ovuli mushroom risotto ($178) was deliciously creamy and al dente, while the roasted beef tenderloin with potato puree in a red wine reduction ($210) hit the meativore sweet spot without being overwhelmingly filling for a lunch menu. On the other hand, the gigantic Wagyu beef burger with cheddar cheese and red onion jam ($198), served with crunchy piping hot fries, was a monster of a meal. The wild boar ragout linguine with porcini mushroom ($178) was a bit too gamey and tough for our taste, while the herb-seared salmon with dried apricots and baby spinach ($188) was perfectly cooked to a blushing rose and buttery flaky. We also tried the house made black ink udon with Spanish prawn, scallop and shiso gremolata ($368) from the dinner menu, which was brimming with umami shrimp fat.
Sweet finish: We concluded our meal with a quartet of desserts, ranging from the lunch menu desserts of pineapple mousse with coconut gel, to the mixed berries with vanilla gelato, to the dinner menu selection of strawberry-chocolate cake with compressed strawberries and Yakult ice cream ($78) and finally, to the 64% chocolate tart with 72% chocolate sorbet ($88). The mixed berries and gelato was a simple, yet effortlessly elegant dessert while the pineapple mousse surprised us with its lightness and delicate flavour (we were expecting full-on pineapple tartness). The strawberry and chocolate cake paled in comparison to its accompaniment of Yakult ice cream, and the chocolate tart with chocolate sorbet nestled in a potpourri of flowers and dehydrated raspberries was almost too pretty to eat.
Verdict: A tasty blend of Asian and Western flavours that’s not to complex too be understood by the average diner.
TOWN, 10/F, The Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, 2568 8708
Opening Hours: Mon to Sat, Lunch 12noon - 2pm, Dinner 6:30 – 11:30pm