Our editor-at-large, Celia Hu, waxed lyrical about the newly revamped Tate Dining Room and Bar when it opened it elegant doors earlier this year. Former graphic designer, turned Cordon Bleu student, turned Michelin-starred chef Vicky Lau’s Tate has been a triumph for its beautiful food, with each dish having its own story to tell.
We recently returned to Tate to sample Chef Lau’s Ode to Fall autumn tasting menu ($1,580 per person, with paired wines), and each course was a carefully curated and orchestrated delight. From Ode to Autumn Harvest, an amuse-bouche of sweetcorn mousse dotted with pops of salty, briny caviar pearls, to the final Ode to Bees – an array of mignardise jewels, charmingly presented in the form of a beehive-shaped multi-layered pot (complete with its own buzzing bees soundtrack!) – each dish honours an ingredient, concept or special memory for the chef. Talk about immersive. We loved every second of the meal – and it was indeed a very long dining experience, clocking in at nearly three hours – and think Tate is the type of place for which special occasions were made. Go if romance is on the cards. Notably, a vegetarian version of the menu is also available.
Ode to Balance: this introductory course was a complementary pairing of tomato and hiramasa kingfish with five garnishes to represent the five tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami. A flavour explosion.
Ode to Nostalgia: this dish is a tribute to the chef’s favourite childhood comfort-food dish, Chinese drunken chicken with rice, this time turned on its head as a chicken roulade risotto with wolfberries for pops of colour and tradition. An East-meets-West masterpiece.
Ode to Warmth: the quality of the Kagoshima beef couldn’t be faulted, and it was well balanced by a Sichuan pepper purée that cut through all that rich, fatty meatiness.
Ode to Preservation: though the taste of this deconstructed apple pie was fine and a fitting nod to autumn, it was the presentation that provided the wow factor for us. Eye candy, anyone?
210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, 2555 2172