Brought to Hong Kong by farm-to-table Japanese restaurant group AP Place Hong Kong Co Ltd, Kushitei offers authentic kushiage, or batter-dipped and deep-fried meat, seafood and veg on bamboo skewers known as kushi.
The focal point of the lively restaurant space is a counter seating eight diners, where the skilled Japanese chefs whip up omakase menus of 10 or 12 courses (HK$498/person or HK$698/person). On the evening of our visit, Kushitei was peppered with Japanese clientele conversing with the chefs in their native tongue, adding an even more authentic touch to our dining experience.
We plumped for the 12-course menu, but we actually recommend opting for the slightly abbreviated version as the final two kushiage courses of abalone and foie gras are a bit too heavy in our opinion. The omakase menus begin with a seasonal trio of appetisers and also include a palate cleanser of ultra-creamy homemade mochi tofu that’s served about halfway through the kushiage courses. The savoury portion of the menu concludes with a choice of traditional Inaniwa udon or chicken ochazuke, a simple, comforting dish made by pouring green tea over rice topped with shredded chicken.
There 12 skewers presented to us were varied and moreish. Although it’s difficult to choose favourites, our top 5 list would go to the mackerel studded with nutty white sesame, the melt-in-the-mouth Sangen pork tenderloin complemented by a pop of spring onion and ginger, the salmon topped with tartar sauce and jewels of salmon roe, the yellowtail accented with the uplifting flavour of yuzu and, finally, it’s a draw between the eel with tongue-numbing sansho peppercorn and earthy shiitake mushroom and minced chicken combo.
The skewers are served with a selection of sauces and condiments – a “secret” tonkatsu-like sauce that’s on the rich side, honey mustard, a light, shoyu-based sauce, salt flakes and sudachi (a tiny Japanese citrus fruit) – and the chefs are on hand to advise which one goes best with each particular skewer, but you’re also free to mix and match.
For dessert, there’s a choice of two beauties – monaka with vanilla ice cream and red bean or homemade custard pudding served in a cute mini eggshell cup. Either one rounds off the meal in classic Japanese style.
An à-la-carte menu is also available in the adjacent (small) dining area, seating 12. Dishes to be savoured here include chicken nanban, chicken soup ramen and grilled rice ball, along with sake, Japanese beer and fruit wine and highball, sour and shochu-based cocktails.
Verdict
Kushitei was buzzing when we visited, and we detected a fair number of Japanese diners enjoying the expertly executed kushiage omakase menus alongside both locals and expats. Kushiage is not as common here in Hong Kong as, say, sushi and yakitori, so it makes for a nice change of pace. For a dose of deliciously authentic Japanese dining at prices that won’t break the bank, Kushitei is a prime pick.
Where: Shop G04–05, G/F, Grand Centre, 8 Humphreys Avenue, TST
For reservations: phone 2688 6150
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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