IL PRESIDENTE’s pedigree is second to none, backed by the team behind the viral Trattoria Felino in Wan Chai, which opened at the tail end of 2023 to almost instant queues out the door.
Unlike the more rustic Felino, which focuses on homestyle Neapolitan recipes, IL PRESIDENTE founders Félix De Arriaga Balanzat and Marcello Scognamiglio have upped the glamour quotient to the nth degree, this time zeroing on regional Italian flavours that have stood the test of time.
We’ve got to say, IL PRESIDENTE’S vibes are immaculate; from the chorus of “buona sera” as you descend the red-carpeted stairway, to the sophisticated design choices (deep reds and browns, leather, velvet, mirrors), to the pristine white tablecloths and white-jacketed servers, to the smooth-as-silk soundtrack, diners are cocooned in a shell of 1980s-style excess.
The 30 or so ingredient-driven dishes on the à-la-carte menu span the length of Italy’s boot. They underpin the founders’ desire to bring the very Italian concept of sprezzatura (effortless elegance) to the table – where wrinkled linen shirts, blazers and pocket squares paired with jeans, and tousled hair are de rigueur.
The antipasti section is divided into stuzzichini (bite-sized pre-dinner nibbles to get the juices flowing) and heartier starters. Of the former, the arancini di mare (HKD148), or seafood arancini, was the favourite, a fun take on the traditional Italian deep-fried risotto ball made more luxurious with a molten cheese core and lobster bisque-like flavour.
Like all the dishes we tried at IL PRESIDENTE, even the light-sounding crudo di ricciola (HKD238), or hamachi crudo, is rich in flavour, with the thick-cut fish slices doused in basil oil and sitting on a bed of smoked eggplant cream. The saving (refreshing) grace comes in the form of the tangy sauce vierge peppered with capers and olives.
The drizzle of aged balsamic, sweet and syrupy, bitter arugula, and toasted hazelnuts bring welcome contrast to the carpaccio di manzo (HKD218), or Wagyu beef carpaccio. There’s a layer of Parmesan fondue at the base of the carpaccio that hardens quite quickly, so we recommend making fast work of this indulgent dish.
Of all the dishes we tried, the pasta course of tagliolini agli scampi e limone (HKD248) comes out on top. The homemade pasta itself is lush – delicate and silky – and is coated in a deliciously innovative sauce encompassing Sicilian langoustine, bottarga, Amalfi lemon zest, and a touch of chilli; it’s rich yet vibrant, creamy yet bright.
IL PRESIDENTE’s cannellone del presidente (HKD218) veers towards the opposite end of the spectrum. This oversized cannellone stuffed with ricotta and spinach is indeed tasty, however, we couldn’t manage more than a few bites owing to its overwhelming cheesy richness. We advise ordering this dish as part of a group, not for a pair to share.
The costoletta alla valdostana (HKD588) is another heavy number, a main course best shared between three or four diners. In this traditional preparation, a veal cutlet is stuffed with smoked ham and fontina cheese, breaded, and pan-fried – the ultimate Italian comfort food.
For dessert, the restaurant’s tableside gelato (HKD178) has been talked up quite a bit, but it was the ubiquitous tiramisu (HKD148) that stole our hearts with its cascading creaminess without being overly sweet; the espresso flavour is more dominant here than in many other versions around town, getting a thumbs up from us.
For those who enjoy a tipple or two, it’s worth noting that the restaurant’s beverage programme is of equal importance, led by the charismatic and very sharply dressed Simone Ciambrone, who most recently headed up BVLGARI Ginza in Tokyo. The 12 cocktails offered have classic roots, but each is injected with a healthy dose of creativity.
We declined the complimentary glass of amaro to end the night, but this gesture is testament to the care gone into curating such a warm and memorable dining experience at IL PRESIDENTE.
Our verdict of IL PRESIDENTE
IL PRESIDENTE honours its traditional Italian roots in a modern and whimsical way. Open for just a few weeks, the restaurant already seems very comfortable in its own skin. We expect this new spot to follow in the footsteps of its big bro Felino – viral success guaranteed.
IL PRESIDENTE, Shop M2, M/F, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell Street, Central, WhatsApp 5443 0908, book here
| Order this: seafood arancini, hamachi crudo, beef tartare, langoustine tagliolini, stuffed veal cutlet, tiramisu Menu: IL PRESIDENTE à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,200–1,400 | Atmosphere: unpretentious yet oozing style – just like many of the Italians we know and love; the service team here are second to none Perfect for: those for whom la dolce vita is a way of life |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
