What was once Aqua Restaurant Group’s fancy Italian restaurant Vista near the top of One Peking in Tsim Sha Tsui has been transformed into a contemporary Chinese fine-dining restaurant, Canton Library, that is just as swish.
The group is well known for curating high-end Chinese and other Asian concepts that appeal equally to Westerners, tourists, and locals with cash to splash, offering immersive design elements, tastes that are not tough on the palate, and stunning harbour views (Aqua and Hutong in the same neighbourhood are prime examples).
This time, Canton Library spotlights the diverse flavour profiles that make up the Lingnan region of southern China, which translates to Guangdong, Guangxi, Chaoshan, Hakka territories, Hong Kong, Macau, Hainan, and even as far as southern Vietnam and eastern Myanmar.
The kitchen is headed up by an Aqua Restaurant Group alum, jack-of-all-trades chef Junno Li, who also leads the food programme at the group’s The Chinese Library, a similar concept at Tai Kwun. As at The Chinese Library, Canton Library also hosts a bar that bridges the spot into a late-evening destination for knocking back eye-catching tea-based cocktails and mocktails.
Canton Library’s à-la-carte menu is far more adventurous than we had anticipated. Robust regional flavours not normally associated with more delicate southern Chinese cuisine play important supporting roles, particularly through the use of Sichuan peppercorn. Take the first starter we sampled, the Chiu Chow master stock sea cucumber (HKD368).
Not normally fans of sea cucumber (its off-putting, alien-like appearance and often chewy texture), it is the pool of green sauce on which the cold-marinated cucumber rests that makes this dish as successful as it is; light yet thoroughly infused with the warmth of Sichuan peppercorn and bite of scallion, we could drink the sauce straight. The sea cucumber itself is tender in texture and mild in flavour, a vehicle for soaking up that sublime sauce.
The chilled crystal winter melon with lime (HKD138) is another cold number that wowed us. Unassuming in appearance, these juicy balls of winter melon are soaked in a bright and tangy Thai-style lime sauce that has a fragrant floral undertone. As with the sea cucumber dish, it’s apparent that chef Junno has a deft hand with sauces, elevating a normally humble ingredient.
Moving on to the warm dishes, the Spanish red prawn with steamed egg white in chicken stock (HKD328) is a Canton Library signature, inspired by the classic Cantonese dish of lobster and egg white. The prawn itself is barely cooked, silky and sweet, whilst the egg white base is drenched in a potent oil made from the prawn egg butter.
Shunde’s traditional dry-steaming method is the influence for the steamed pork belly with black bean and chilli (HKD328), which is super savoury and salty (fine for us, but it might be a touch too much umami and salt for those with more sensitive palates) and carries with it a strong funk from the fermented black beans.
The same can be said of the sizzling yellow croaker in claypot with fermented soybean paste (HKD428), cured overnight and cooked with loads of ginger, garlic, and shallot. There are three fermented bean pastes utilised in the dish (Yangjiang black bean paste from Guangdong, Puning yellow bean paste from Chaoshan, and local Hong Kong sweet yellow bean paste); once the claypot lid is lift, you are immediately hit with a whiff of fermentation and garlic that sets the stage for the flavour overload to follow. The fish itself is tender and sticky, nearly dissolving on the tongue.
Chef Leung Kwok-wa’s dim sum programme at Canton Library has been talked up quite a bit. The wonton noodle in dumpling (HKD108), a riff on the classic har gow steamed shrimp dumpling, and dama zhan pan-fried bun (HKD128) filled with roasted pork belly, tofu, Tai O shrimp paste, and chive are both made with premium ingredients, but we found little to differentiate them in overall taste when compared to much less costly options at long-standing yum cha parlours around town.
Our verdict of Canton Library
Aqua Restaurant Group are certainly not reinventing the wheel with the opening of Canton Library. On the other hand, they are clever enough to know not to change a winning game. Canton Library ticks all the boxes when it comes to the decor, food, and views that have made the group’s Aqua and Hutong successful for so many years. The price tags here are as sky high as the location, however, this is a restaurant that is the very definition of special occasions. We were expecting a sojourn into understated Cantonese-esque flavours and were pleasantly surprised by chef Junno’s daring creativity.
Canton Library, 29/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2982 0628, WhatsApp 5626 6134, book here
| Order this: Chiu Chow sea cucumber, chilled winter melon, Spanish red prawn, steamed pork belly, yellow croaker in claypot Menu: Canton Library à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,600–1,800 | Atmosphere: teal velvet seating, dark wood, gilded lattice detailing, floor-to-ceiling windows, and dark lighting combine to evoke a nightclub-like ambience. The unobstructed harbour views are hard to beat. Perfect for: inventive and bold Chinese flavours coupled with views that are similarly dazzling |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
