Considering how much we adore Black Sheep Restaurants’ newly opened French bistro Jean-Pierre, we had high expectations for Salon des Refusés, the group’s cosier and (slightly) quieter Med-inspired sibling.
The Salon des Refusés space is much smaller and more restrained than its next-door neighbour, without all the typical Black Sheep bells and whistles, displaying an understated elegance that’s a breath of fresh air.
The restaurant is named after the unconventional art exhibition organised by Napoleon III in Paris in 1863, and we think this association is apt, with chef-patron Luca Marinelli and protégé chef Gabe Chan designing a succinct menu that is far from run-of-the-mill.
The Mediterranean small plates have a strong sense of the sea, with nary a meat ingredient in sight. The flavours are creative, light, and bright, conjuring up images of sun-soaked lunches along the French Riviera and Amalfi Coast. The elements that make up each plate often feature Asian, particularly Japanese, touches.
Most of the dishes at Salon des Refusés can be eaten in just a few bites, so you will need to order quite a few to feel satisfied. In typical Black Sheep hospitality, we were treated to a feast of nearly a dozen plates. Whilst we enjoyed all without exception, there were a few showstoppers.
In the “snacks” section, the cod tarama (HKD108) is a true palate pick-me-up. We couldn’t stop dipping the cold radish into this creamy, oceany, slightly spicy dip made of salted and cured cod roe – one of Greece’s finest mezze.
Salon des Refusés offers a few “toast” options to snack on. Both the iwashi on toast (HKD208) and Hokkaido uni on toast (HKD308) are divine.
The thick slices of iwashi, or Japanese sardine, is rich and oily, dripping in omega-3s. Doused liberally in rice vinegar and paired with Japanese fruit tomato and Cantabrian anchovy, the flavours are big and brash with this one.
The uni is more refined, its sweet, creamy brininess made even more luxe with the addition of a healthy lashing of seaweed butter on the toast.
Turning to the “raw” section, the bluefin tuna carpaccio (HKD208) scores a home run. The pickled onion, olive, and Calabrian chilli oil are ingenious matches for this raw tuna dish, each element standing out individually, but somehow not overpowering the delicate flavour and texture of the fish.
It would be difficult to go wrong with the Hokkaido scallop (HKD228) in the “hot” section, simply owing to its pristine freshness. These meaty beauties are bathed in a buttery, Pernod-laced sauce and topped with a Sicilian pistachio crumble, the flavours intermingling luxuriously.
Then we have the ma yau “alla tuba” (HKD258), buttery in its own right. It takes two days to dry the skin of this hearty local-favourite fish that’s also known as threadfin. Upon grilling, the skin achieves a sensational golden crispiness. The diced tomato, olive oil, fresh herbs, and lemon juice that make up the traditional sauce vierge uplift and refresh.
For our pasta course, we opted for the nightly special of red prawn carbonara (HKD328), a heaping portion of classic eggy carbonara atop a mound of red prawn carpaccio for mixing in at the table. Talk about Mediterranean indulgence!
You should end your night with either the coupe colonel (HKD118), a traditional French digestif of pucker-inducing lemon sorbet with a shot of Grey Goose vodka poured atop, or the torta aurora (HKD88). This vanilla-laced Italian sponge cake is light and airy, layered with luscious pastry cream.
Our verdict of Salon des Refusés
Salon des Refusés makes for a very special night out. The seafood dishes are vibrant and complex and the interior design is restrained yet beautiful. Because of the size of the small plates, diners can quickly rack up a high bill without noticing, having completely immersed themselves in the moreish under-the-sea flavours.
Salon des Refusés, G/F, 9 Bridges Street, Soho, Central, 2154 6106, book here
| Order this: iwashi, cod tarama, Hokkaido uni, bluefin tuna carpaccio, kinmedai, Hokkaido scallop, ma yau, pasta alla chitarra with baby squid, coupe colonel, torta aurora Menu: Salon des Refusés à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,400–1,600 | Atmosphere: like a secret supper club – dark, intimate, understated, elegant Perfect for: catch-ups with friends who love seafood just as much as you do; lively date nights |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
