For the Australians amongst us, “servo” is short for “service station,” a roadside spot where drivers can stop to fill up their tanks with petrol whilst also picking up a quick bite to eat.
This iconic Australian pit stop is the inspiration for Servo, a restaurant launched in Central in early 2025 by Michelin-starred chef Shane Osborn and wine expert Didier Yang of The Arcane Collective. It offers a cosy, casual dose of the laid-back hospitality and distinctive multicultural cuisine associated with Down Under.
Until our most recent visit to Servo, we were under the (mistaken) impression that the eatery focuses solely on typical Australian brekkie and lunch drinks and dishes (think smoothies, flat whites, toasties, salads) – how wrong we were!
Servo’s under-the-radar set dinner menu, costing HKD298 per person, showcases four creative courses – a steal for that price tag, especially in the beating business heart of Hong Kong Island.
Note: we have also listed à-la-carte prices if you choose to mix and match your meal.
The set kicks off with a snack of smoked salmon tartine (HKD138), a delicious open-faced brown bread sarnie piled high with buttery smoked salmon. The salmon is paired in the classic fashion with sour cream, chive, and slices of boiled egg, achieving effortless elegance. Pickle is a novel tangy addition.
Then it’s time for each diner to select a starter and main, culminating with the dessert of the day.
Vibrant flavours can be found in the beef tartare (HKD148). It also incorporates chunks of pickle into the mix alongside aioli and cured egg yolk to achieve an umami punchiness that kept us going back for more.
With the niçoise salad (HKD158), classic flavours are again featured with the tuna, soft-boiled egg, and green beans, however, there are multiple elements that speak to the international influences favoured in Australia.
The tuna is served tataki style (spiced, seared, and coated in black and white sesame seed) and the tomatoes are sun-dried instead of fresh. The biggest surprise comes at the bottom of the bowl, where a smoky chipotle-accented potato salad is layered. Even those who normally forgo salads will be impressed with the thought (not to mention the taste) that’s gone into this version.
We were recommended the rigatoni beef bolognese (HKD168) main, which turned out to be the only (slight) disappointment of our meal. Despite smoked beef brisket and tallow being used to construct the meat sauce, we found the flavour other than the intense smokiness lacking, though we did appreciate the touch of chilli that kicks in at the end of each bite.
The star of Servo’s menu has got to be homemade “chook” pie (HKD288 for 2) with chicken, mushroom, and leek. Popular at pubs and servos throughout Oz, this traditional pot pie features a crisp and buttery pastry top and is packed with creamy, hearty goodness. The flavours here are complex (we detected tarragon and perhaps a hint of anchovy) yet still nostalgic and comforting.
We did indeed try one (off-set) toastie, and it was a doozy: the truffle toastie (HKD188) with mortadella, mozzarella, and heaps (six grams, to be exact) of Australian winter black truffle.
This is one utterly rich and indulgent toasted bread specimen that’s only available for a limited time (in fact, the evening of our visit to Servo was sadly it’s last day of action), but we’re sure the chef team will dream up something equally moreish this next season.
Servo’s rice pudding (HKD88) is certainly not your traditional bland and stodgy nursery pud! It gives a strong nod to Asia with the inclusion of seasonal fruit coulis (mango, in our case), coconut, and – the best part – bits of candied ginger imparting bursts of chewy, peppery warmth.
Our verdict of Servo
Servo is easy-going enough where you can comfortably let your hair down, but serves up an elevated menu spotlighting the seasonal local produce, diverse global flavours, and innovative ingredient juxtapositions that make Australian cuisine its very own. It’s relaxed, not rigid, and bold, not subtle: our preferred components for a dining experience worthy of a return visit.
Servo, G/F, Kowloon Dairy Building, 17–19 On Lan Street, Central, WhatsApp 2728 0177, book here
| Order this: smoked salmon tartine, beef tartare, niçoise salad, “chook” pie, rice pudding Menu: Servo menus Price for two for dinner: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: friendly and neighbourly – we’re all family at Servo! Perfect for: weeknight dinner dates or chinwags with mates |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
