More than most other cultures, food and alcohol are inextricably linked in South Korea. It’s almost unthinkable to head to a jujeom or pocha without ordering a bite to eat paired with your fair share of soju or makgeolli – making for a dining culture that’s uber social and convivial.
At YuSang in Central, this unique relationship between anju (food) and sool (alcohol) is explored. In fact, the restaurant takes its name from the traditional Korean drinking game of yusang goksu. With participants stationed along the banks of a winding stream, each must compose and recite a poem before a floating cup of wine reaches him or her – or drink the wine as a penalty.
Whilst there’s no stream at LANDMARK PRINCE’S, perhaps 3-6-9 or Baskin-Robbins 31 will take its place at YuSang, where the alcohol list covers three main categories: soju, makgeolli, and fruit wine.
We opted for the honey makgeolli (HKD480/750ml), a sparkling rice wine that’s infused with honey in-house. Fresh local honeycomb is added to each cup upon serving to impart even more floral sweetness, a nice touch that speaks to the restaurant’s attention to detail.
YuSang’s food menu runs the full Korean gamut, and we were treated to quite the feast. To make your ordering easier, we’ll concentrate on the best of the YuSang bunch.
Unlike the bright red, spicy kimchi we’re accustomed to in Hong Kong, the restaurant’s clear white kimchi cucumber (HKD122) is a refreshing change of pace, tangier and less fiery than the usual suspects. The local and organic fermented vegetables are presented in two styles: one crunchier and aged for just two days and the other aged for a week and more robust and complex in flavour.
The perilla burrata (HKD168) is a fusion creation showcasing an East-meets-West pesto prepared with both basil and perilla, an Asian herb distinct in its earthy, anise-like taste. The best bit comes when the burrata ball is split open and the creamy, milky interior melds with the pesto.
The boneless YuSang fried chicken (HKD450) is the most decadent KFC to ever cross our taste buds. Whilst the chicken itself is crispy, juicy, and well seasoned, it’s the toppings that take it to another level; the perilla-infused cream cheese, caviar, and salmon roe bring umami to every bite.
In this classic Korean combination, the poached sliced pork (HKD365) is paired with both aged kimchi and salt-cured house-made tofu for just the right balance of richness, piquancy, and texture. The local pork belly, as fatty as it should be, is tender from slow-cooking, with a kiss of smokiness from the restaurant’s charcoal grill before serving.
Possibly the best version of galbi-jjim we’ve tried to date, the grilled beef rib (HKD520) was the showstopper of our table. The three-step preparation process (slow-cooking, steaming, and grilling over binchotan charcoal) is worth it, especially the addition of pomelo whilst steaming, lending a delicious citrusy sweetness to the meat.
The accompanying potato purée is bland, but the large Cheongyang green chilli pepper atop the rib makes up for it with plenty of slow-burning heat. We recommend a nibble of beef followed by a (smaller) nibble of chilli.
At the time of our tasting, there is no dessert served at YuSang, so perhaps order another round of honey or yuzu makgeolli if you’re in need of a bit of sweetness before making your merry way out.
Our verdict of YuSang
Food paired with alcohol is a staple of Korean culture, and YuSang draws on this concept with a menu appealing to those looking for a quality bite to eat alongside their happy-hour drinks as well as dinner-goers who are in it for the long haul. Here in Hong Kong, Korean dishes are often difficult to differentiate, tending to fuse into the same kimchi-gochujang oneness. YuSang bucks that trend with refined, delicate playfulness.
YuSang, Shop 105–109 & 139, 1/F, LANDMARK PRINCE’S, 10 Chater Road, Central, 9235 3527, book here
| Order this: white kimchi, burrata, fried chicken, poached pork belly, grilled beef rib Menu: YuSang menu Price for two: HKD1,200–1,400 | Atmosphere: modern, sleek, and high-spirited (nab the right table and you’ll be treated to lovely views of Statue Square) Perfect for: alcohol-fuelled Korean bites when your sangsa is paying |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
