Former fans of jean may and current fans of chef Tiff Lo, fret not, your favourite cook is back in a Hong Kong kitchen, this time in Kai Tak.
Bistrot’s Suzette lands at the foot of the new-ish Cullinan Sky Mall, another glossy skyscraper mall erected in Kai Tak. Enter and the feel of the restaurant is bistro bravado, complete with black-and-white-stripped waiters; the Frenchness unfortunately disappears once you re-enter the shiny mall and concrete neighbourhood.
French restaurants almost exclusively rely on a Hong Kong Island address to cure a reputation of exclusivity, overtly emulating a swaggery Parisian atmosphere. Kai Tak speaks of an ambitious project, a democratising of the cuisine with more freedom granted to what’s cooked in the kitchen to what diners demand in Central and Wan Chai and Causeway Bay.
You cannot puff tobacco indoors anymore in Hong Kong, so a tangy, salty oeuf mimosa, smoked salmon (HKD32 per piece) suffices for the prologue of our meal to invigorate my hunger. The egg itself, priced per half a piece, which may not speak of the best value for money, is matched with an eggy sauce with dill and lemon for a salty smack. The smoked salmon is a cherry on top for a hit of energy, just like a cigarette would.
Designed lighter for a palate not accustomed to grand portions and heavy meat, the chicken liver parfait, red onion compote (HKD128) comes with a frothy and lighter-than-usual texture to impart the minerally flavour of the liver without overwhelming the stomach.
The accompanying biscuits are small to save space in the stomach for later and paired with a mound of pickled red onions to balance things out.
The last starter we enjoyed for the table was the black olive panisse frits, aioli (HKD108), suitable for vegetarian diners. Each chickpea fritter sticker crumbles with a garlicky smack inside, good for matching with the garlic aioli for max (nice) smelliness.
The main selection at Bistrot’s Suzette is where the bistro shines. Their duck confit with lentils (HKD238) again reflects the restaurant’s slight accommodations to the Asian palate with duck grilled with an absence of heavy meaty sauce and placed among a bed of garden lentils.
I wished for the duck to be paired with an onion or steak-esque sauce to bring moistness to the bird, but each spoonful of the duck strands, its skin, and the lentils pairs well.
The beef bourguignon (HKD298) is comparably strong with aromatic and roasted flavours to the beef, which holds a texture similar to your curried beef brisket at a cha chaan teng. Yet, instead of a fragrant curry mix, we have a heavy red wine-braised sauce useful for cleaning the mashed potato up with.
For meals that require at least one non-meat item, order the salmon, piperade (HKD248). The fish crumbles under slight pressure of a fork pressed into its skin, indicating good quality. The salmon tastes milky and of light lemon and butter, again showing this is a fresh fish that doesn’t require sauce to drown out any previous frozen parts. The pepper and tomato sauce surrounding the salmon is snappy with a vinegar flavour that cuts through upon each bite.
The dessert section of the menu was lustfully gawking at me during the entire meal before it whispered ‘come try us’ and we relented, ordering three, of which the apple tarte fine (HKD88) stood out for us.
The pastry was flaky, apples soaked in a cinnamon sauce or dusting and sugary, ice cream cold, and cinnamon crumble included in the mix for a bit of texture. It won’t overwhelm you, but please your second stomach after the first is full of salt, butter, and fat.
Our verdict of Bistrot’s Suzette
Bistrot’s Suzette shows French food can take risks in Hong Kong. Vegetarians can rejoice in Kai Tak who had previously faced admonishment at other French restaurants with meat galore, with belt-stretching-conscious diners need not to worry for excessive portions and flavours; everything is designed in moderation here.
Bistrot’s Suzette, Shop G02, G/F, Cullinan Sky Mall, 10 Concorde Road, Kai Tak, 3188 8896, book here
| Order this: chicken liver parfait, duck confit with lentils, beef bourguignon, salmon Menu: à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD500 – HKD750 | Atmosphere: a mall restaurant with a bistro feel, yet it doesn’t feel like a mall Perfect for: French dining lovers who aren’t fans of breaking the bank on date night |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
