Oh hungry? Oh Henry! Although not related to the iconic American candy bar, we couldn’t help but think of this slogan when we dined at the newly opened Henry, an American grill and smokehouse nestled within Bayfare Social on level five of the Rosewood hotel. This slogan comes to mind because of the sheer amount of meaty, indulgent dishes offered on the menu.
Acclaimed meat lover Nathan Green, previously of Rhoda by JIA Group, is at the helm of this restaurant and butcher-shop concept, built around aged steak techniques, butchery and meat-curing traditions, with an emphasis on the generous flavours of the American South. A big fire grill and massive clear-glass meat locker complete the picture of meat paradise in this dark, sexy restaurant.
Our meal began with Chef Green’s famous homemade sourdough bread, accompanied by complimentary Benton Country ham and butcher’s shop terrine ($248) with cherry and peach chutney.
The raw Hokkaido scallop with blue prawns ($248), dressed in pink peppercorn, ginger and lime, was the lightest amongst the starters and made for a refreshing prelude.
Not usually fans of beef tartare, we were pleasantly surprised by how clean tasting Henry’s version is. The cold- smoked steak tartare ($218), tossed with egg yolk purée and served alongside crisp toast, made even wary tartare eaters like us go back for seconds and thirds.
Crab Louie ($228), served with crunchy vegetables and dressed in an oyster sauce alongside a soft-boiled egg, was another refreshing, lighter starter.
And rounding off the starters was the BBQ pork belly ($168) brushed in bourbon glaze, served alongside green slaw to break up the richness of the dish. The pork was fork tender and incredibly creamy.
There was a lot of flambé action going on tableside – and A LOT of meat.
The meat orgy above consists of Becker Lane Organic pork chops ($398), Elysian Fields Farm lamb rack ($538), 44 Farms 700g T-bone steak ($658), which was aged for 90 days in bourbon, Brandt Ranch tomahawk ($2,488 for 1.9kg), Snake River Farms 350g strip loin ($688) and beef brisket in espresso BBQ sauce ($298).
A festive dish packed with Gulf prawns, clams, andouille sausage and corn ($498), along with a generous sprinkling of Creole spices, completed the mains,
Not to be outshone, the sides brought plenty of Southern hospitality to the table. We couldn’t get enough of the creamy Jimmy Red corn grits ($108) with burnt ends and pickled okra.
Roasted garlic, charred corn with harissa and Parmesan ($68), fire-roasted salad ($88) and fluffy bacon-oil-infused bread are just some of the sides we tried at Henry. Special applause goes to the charred corn for its addictive, earthy sweetness.
And just when we were crying for mercy, we got hit with one of the most decadent, rich chocolate fondants we’ve tasted in Hong Kong, coupled with pretzel-flavoured ice cream. The baked Alaska with peanut butter ice cream, banana and condensed milk ignited under a bath of bourbon flames, but the dessert prize goes to the cornmeal soufflé with bacon ice cream. This was so sinfully good that, despite feeling guilty about our overindulgence, we heaped several spoonfuls onto our plate.
Oh boy – what a meal! We haven’t had a hoedown like this in ages, with dishes that speak of OTT comfort eating. We could almost hear our table sigh under the weight of carnivorous dishes stacked on top. All the meat dishes at Henry are made using premium ingredients and are expertly prepared to maximise their flavour, and the sides dishes provide just as much indulgent good eating. Make sure you unbuckle your belt (or just take it off all together) to save room for that cornmeal soufflé!
5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, TST, 3891 8732, book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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