Hong Kongers are head over heels for both Italian and Japanese cuisines, and ZOZZONA, a Japanese-Italian pasta bar in Tsim Sha Tsui, is a promising new eatery combining the two. On the Tuesday night of our visit, the Hillwood Road restaurant was pumping.
Chef Takayuki Kumai, Carbone’s ex-pasta chef for six years, has been joined by former Black Sheep Restaurants culinary director Christopher Mark and Vidur Yadav of Bengal Brothers to open this relaxed spot where the pasta is handmade fresh daily and the fusion small plates are meant to be shared over glasses of Italian wine, sake, highballs, and zero-proof concoctions.
ZOZZONA specialises in that unique Japanese sub-cuisine known as itameshi, blending traditional Italian dishes and cooking styles with Japanese ingredients like seaweed, soy sauce, and seaweed; on the plate, this translates to everything from miso butter pasta to Japanese curry risotto.
Chef Takayuki’s ingredient-led pasta dishes, of which there are about a half-dozen on the one-page menu, are more refined than those found at the standard itameshi joints in Japan, but just as comforting and appealing.
Starting strong, the maccheroni alla zozzona (HKD168) takes its cue from the traditional Roman pasta dish combining amatriciana and carbonara. This is a super-hearty, rib-sticking plate that we lapped up, especially the crispy bits of guanciale and Kurobuta pork sausage. The tangy tomato-based sauce is quite peppery, offering a subtle heat.
The tagliolini freddi (HKD168), served chilled, has already become a ZOZZONA signature, featuring a shiso and walnut pesto and strips of marinated squid crowning the mound of tagliolini. We applaud the creativity of the recipe, but we found the shiso flavour to be too pungent and overpowering. On the plus side, ZOZZONA’s tagliolini has the proper bite.
The botan ebi spaghetti AOP (HKD238) is chef Takayuki’s take on a classic aglio e olio, here Japanised with additions of wild spot prawn and nori. The umami flavour of the fresh botan ebi dominates here, whilst its naturally softer texture could be off-putting to some.
Besides pasta, there are a few starters to recommend. Carb lovers should go for the Okinawa seaweed zeppole (HKD108). Normally served in a sweet fashion in Italy, these deep-fried dough balls are made briny and savoury at ZOZZONA, a fusion win.
The burrata cheese (HKD128) is another shining signature antipasti, with its garnishes changing seasonally. This autumn, the silky, oozing burrata is accessorised with Japanese grapes, candied hazelnuts, and balsamic vinegar – a delightful textural contrast packing in sweet, nutty, and acidic flavours.
ZOZZONA’s two desserts – tiramisu (HKD68) and Hokkaido milk gelato (HKD68) – are forgettable compared to the rest of the menu. In future, we’d like to see chef Takayuki design a pudding that highlights a few of the sweet flavours favoured in both Italy and Japan.
True pasta fans who want to sample it all should opt for the seven-course omakase (HKD458 pp) with optional sake flight (HKD288 pp).
Our verdict of ZOZZONA
Reminding us of a neighbourhood izakaya in Tokyo, ZOZZONA is warm, cosy, and welcoming. Due to its breakout success, the service from the kitchen team is still on the slow side, though the wait staff are very friendly and accommodating. We appreciate the general trend towards more casual dining concepts in Hong Kong, and ZOZZONA’s inventive Japanese-meets-Italian flair is a welcome addition to the city’s F&B scene.
ZOZZONA, G/F, 29–31 Hillwood Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 7073 8825, book here
| Order this: seaweed zeppole, burrata, maccheroni alla zozzona, botan ebi spaghetti Menu: ZOZZONA à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: busy and buzzy, getting even louder as more and more birthdays are celebrated each evening (ZOZZONA seems to be the place to be in TST when it comes to birthday dos) Perfect for: pasta lovers in search of a change from their typical spag bol |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
