A Lux adds to the upscale restaurant scene on Central’s Duddell Street. Named after the measurement of illuminance (or luminous power of light), the eatery places the spotlight on classic French and Italian cuisines, highlighting fresh, seasonal ingredients.
The kitchen is led by Chef Wai Chung Kwan, who has experience at Michelin-starred establishments in France and prestigious restaurants around Hong Kong. Chef Chung is known for his pressed duck, vol-au-vent, sole meunière and red prawn pasta, which are also signatures at A Lux.
Despite its name, the the restaurant itself doesn’t have a lot of natural light, but it boasts a tasteful interior with eccentric gold fixtures and a contemporary dining room.
Tasting menus are offered at A Lux, and they come with a luxe price tag – from $428 per person for lunch and from $1,080 per person for dinner, with various wine-pairing add-ons available.
To start, the amuse-bouche of the day featured a crispy cracker filled with creamy avocado purée topped with crabmeat.
Smoked salmon imperial fillet with Oscietra caviar: the salmon is delicate and the caviar adds an elegant touch, but the textures and flavours were a bit too soft for my palate.
Lobster bisque with sweetcorn: a potent soup is poured over the lobster, overpowering the flavour of the corn.
Scallop, pancetta and Italian egg: this dish features Hokkaido scallops rolled in smoky pancetta. Puréed potato, as soft as a cloud, sits at the bottom of the plate. The egg is mixed into the purée to add richness.
Fettuccine, confit duck leg and truffle: the fresh pasta was cooked perfectly al dente. Shredded confit duck covers the silky fettuccine, which is topped with finely shaved black truffle. This is a very earthy dish.
Beef rib-eye cap, pumpkin and shallot: diners have two choices for the main, with the other being sea bass with oxtail stew. This beef rib-eye cap was cooked to a blushing medium rare. The dollop of pumpkin purée offers sweetness and is a nice contrast to the hearty meat.
The desserts at A Lux change weekly. We were served two deconstructed desserts: ginger crème brûlée and a mousse of orange blossom and chocolate. Both were pretty mediocre – I had hoped for something more innovative.
A Lux incorporates standard-issue luxury ingredients into their tasting menus. The ingredients are fresh and there are creative attempts with the plating, but I found our tasting menu to be rather generic, with the flavours all a bit mild for me. I was hoping to see more dynamic and bold options, especially if the chef chooses to spotlight seasonal ingredients that are sourced from around the world. Some dishes did shine during our dinner (namely the scallop with pancetta and fresh fettuccine with confit duck), but I was disappointed not to have been able to try any of Chef Chung’s signatures.
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s