Sharing an outdoor terrace with neighbour A Smoking Affair, Sichuan Rouge is a sizzling sibling to the contemporary hotpot restaurant.
The Sichuan eatery’s retro design is striking, modelled after the once buzzing nightlife scene of Hong Kong Island neighbourhood Shek Tong Tsui in the 1930s.
The moody, neon-lit interior competes for attention with the menu designed by two chefs who are well-versed in Sichuan cookery. Chef Hu Taiqing has remained an iconic figure in Sichuan province’s culinary scene for the past three decades, whilst local chef Kenny Chan has been in the business for nearly 60 years – his family even used to run a Sichuan bean paste factory in Hong Kong!
This powerhouse chef duo have sourced dozens of ingredients from Sichuan and Chongqing in order to craft a menu that does justice to the astounding 24 flavour profiles of the Chinese cuisine. Though Sichuan cooking is most well known for its liberal use of tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns and variety of fiery chillies, its repertoire is much more complex than that, with bitter, sour, and even sweet flavours playing key roles.
At our tasting, we opted for a balance of classic Sichuan dishes versus more creative interpretations. We urge you to do the same to best enjoy the diversity of the cuisine’s flavours and preparations.
We kicked off with the young pigeon with pepper (HKD98), a cold dish that jump-starts the taste buds. You’ll definitely need the plastic gloves on hand to dig deep into the bird, gnawing away at the bones to devour every last bit of the savoury, juicy meat. The pepper in question is fresh green Sichuan peppercorn, which imparts a bright, floral quality and strong tongue-tingling sensation.
The deep-fried sliced beef with Sichuan peppercorn and rock salt (HKD198) is a must-order here. The delicate slices of beef interspersed with thinly sliced lotus root are so thin and crunchy that they shatter like glass upon first bite. The salty, spicy flavour profile and crisp texture of the beef combine to create a protein-rich snack like no other.
If a Chinese meal for you is not complete with a soup course, we suggest ordering the hot and sour soup with freshly ground pepper (HKD88 pp) – but be prepared as the dish description is no lie; this soup is indeed intensely peppery! The broth is also as tangy and thick as it should be, a textbook version of this classic recipe.
We strayed from the Sichuan norm with the chilli fried smoked eel wrapped in pork intestine (HKD388). This dish features smoked boneless local white eel encased in pork intestine that’s been marinated in fermented chilli bean paste. The fried chitterling-wrapped eel is then cut into hefty slices and served amongst a mountain of diced fried chilli.
We enjoyed this plate for its ingenuity and elaborate preparation method, but because the flavour of both the eel and pork intestine is extremely rich, we could only manage a few bites. A plus, the spice level is on point with this one.
The generous amount of high-quality beef showcased in the Sichuan-style boiled Angus beef (HKD288) is what makes the difference with this traditional recipe rendition – unlike versions that are more common in Hong Kong.
On the Sichuan spiciness scale, this dish normally ranks pretty high. Though we could definitely detect the earthy, piquant taste of red Sichuan peppercorn, we found the flavour of the broth diluted and underseasoned apart from the use of the peppercorn itself.
In terms of a staple Sichuan dish, we recommend the zhong boiled dumplings with chilli oil (HKD78/6pcs), named after a Chengdu street vendor who sold these plump crescent-shaped pork bombs a century ago. It’s the sauce that elevates these from your standard boiled dumplings, heavy on the garlic, dark soy sauce, and chilli oil.
The black sugar glutinous rice cake (HKD48/4pcs) is the way to go to end your meal at Sichuan Rouge with a sweet touch. Delightedly chewy, these warm, bite-sized treats contain an oozing black sugar filling that is rich and caramel-like – akin in flavour to the popular black sugar boba milk found around town.
Our verdict of Sichuan Rouge
At Sichuan Rouge, chefs Hu and Kenny offer a masterclass of Sichuan cuisine that’s both well executed and priced reasonably considering the surrounds. Whether you’re a Sichuan aficionado or simply dipping your toes into this regional Chinese cuisine, there’s something to please every palate.
Sichuan Rouge, 27/F, Soundwill Plaza II – Midtown, 1–29 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, 9370 6345, WhatsApp 7045 4963, book here
| Order this: chilled razor clam, young pigeon, hot and sour soup, deep-fried sliced beef, chilli fried smoked eel, deep-fried chicken with chilli, boiled dumplings, black sugar glutinous rice cake Menu: Sichuan Rouge menu Price for two: HKD800–1,000 | Atmosphere: 1930s glamour with plenty of dark wood, neon lights, and pops of red Perfect for: an approachable, more upscale exploration of the diversity of Sichuan cuisine |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
