It’s a big deal when a new restaurant opens at an established Hong Kong hotel. In this case, the hotel in question is Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, going strong in North Point since 2019. The new spot replaces the boutique hotel’s buffet restaurant The Farmhouse.
Situated on the second floor in an elegant contemporary space, all-day diner One Duck Lane is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner (breakfast is reserved for in-house guests), serving up a regional Chinese menu starring – you guessed it – Peking duck.
The open roasting kitchen at the entrance hints at the culinary delights whipped by chef Jack Chan, formerly of Sheraton Hong Kong’s renowned Cantonese restaurant Celestial Court.
We kicked off with the restaurant’s USP – the signature roasted Peking duck (HKD448/HKD888) – priced reasonably for an upscale hotel restaurant. Wheeled over on a trolley and sliced tableside, the bells and whistles don’t stop there. The duck meat itself retains a juicy texture, whilst the skin is as golden and shiny as can be – a fine specimen!
The duck is served with all the traditional accompaniments (pancakes, sliced spring onion and cucumber, hoisin sauce, mashed garlic), but we urge you to upgrade to the foie gras and truffle parfait (HKD48) for a Peking duck experience like no other. Runny in texture and more like a sauce than a whipped parfait, the foie gras flavour offers an earthy complement to the duck’s in-your-face richness.
Chef Jack has upped the game with his innovative duck second course of poached rice in supreme duck soup (+HKD188). This is one seriously soothing and nourishing soup that warms that soul with its intense depth of flavour.
For a Sichuan-style change of pace, the chilled sliced “yin yang” chicken with spicy Sichuan peanut sauce (HKD138) is a looker, an impressive star-shaped presentation of layered black and white chicken. We could have done with more of the nutty sauce to prolong the fiery kick at the culmination of each bite.
You’ll need to get your hands dirty with the wok-fried cumin lamb rack (HKD288), which is fatty, salty, and lick-your-fingers good. Though there’s a heap of sliced chilli atop the lamb, the heat quotient remains bearable; the flavours are more savoury and earthy than spicy.
Our favourite dishes at One Duck Lane lean towards the Sichuan end of the spectrum, and the steamed leopard garoupa with rattan pepper (HKD70/tael) sticks to that theme. The fish itself is exceptionally meaty (watch out for the myriad of tiny bones!), and the fragrant Sichuan peppercorn does not overpower the clean, ocean-fresh flavour of the garoupa. The aromatics fuse subtly and successfully.
The Peking duck set menu for two (HKD1,488) is a good option for those looking to try the best of what One Duck Lane has to offer, from hot and sour soup, to steamed king razor clams with garlic and glass noodles, to wok-fried Mongolian lamb fillet with scallion.
Our verdict of One Duck Lane
Who doesn’t drool over Peking duck? One Duck Lane does justice to this iconic Chinese dish. Whilst we admittedly weren’t blown away by the dim sum we sampled, the regional Chinese dishes (Sichuan in particular) display chef Jack’s deft hand in the kitchen.
Note that there’s a 15% discount on the à-la-carte and set menus at One Duck Lane until Mar. 31, 2026.
One Duck Lane, 2/F, West Tower, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, 1 North Point Estate Lane, North Point, 3896 9896, book here
| Order this: Peking duck, foie gras parfait, poached rice in supreme duck soup, “yin yang” chicken, leopard garoupa with rattan pepper, cumin lamb rack Menu: One Duck Lane à-la-carte menu Price for two for dinner: around HKD1,500 | Atmosphere: Bright, airy, and understatedly elegant, offering high ceilings, well-spaced tables, and great views Perfect for: an elevated Peking duck fix that’s ideal for group dining |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
