It is hard to find reliable Sichuanese restaurants in Hong Kong. In a sea of Cantonese and other regional Chinese diets, the fiery province does not quite comparably fare well here for choice.
Maybe blame it on an aversion for spice or more the ‘issues’ that may plague diners after. Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour, the group’s classy North Point hotel, has Sichuan Verandah for an answer to our search – and this predicament – and a name-brand that other diners can now trust.
Their à-la-carte menu shapes up like most Chinese eateries and Sichuanese restaurants: cold appetisers, soups, dumplings, hot vegetarian, larger plates, noodle and rice, and desserts comprise the four-columned, couple-dozen menu. Nothing appears particularly challenging for the tastebuds – no pig brains from Chongqing here!
This “vibrant Chinese bistro” allows for customised spice levels, from baby spice, the standard, steamy, red firestorm, to spice master. With all but the deep fried chicken, dried chilli, Sichuan pepper (HKD248) selected for ‘the standard’ spice, we found the level of spice to not hit too hard.
Enjoying this dish at a ‘steamy’ spice level allowed the plump and salty (likely MSG-dusted) chicken bites to grow in power and flavour. The tingly sensation from the peppers helps with the flavour combination. I did not dare eat the dried chilli, unless I wanted my throat on fire.
Back to the appetisers and the signature poached chicken, peanut, sesame, chilli oil (HKD148) kickstarted our meal.
A standard dish to most Sichuanese menus, the chicken was served plump and chilli oil strong, yet not overpowering. I wished the peanut and sesame additions were stronger to bring different flavours to each bite. I would recommend this dish to begin with to raise the heat from the off.
Comparably, the hot and sour seafood soup (HKD128) brought the heat down with a soupy collection of crunchy and soft seafood nibbles, mixed in with a variety of mushrooms and tofu. It is cooling and non-offensive, helping to numb the pain of other more spicy dishes.
Our beef dish for our main course, the boiled beef, mala Sichuan sauce (HKD318), was velvety, soaked up the Sichuan sauce, and came with a salty aftertaste.
It was an instant hit in my books and comparably stronger than our boiled beef dishes elsewhere. I pin that down to the soft texture of the beef.
Finally, we sunk our spoons into yet another signature from the province, a Sichuan-style boiled mandarin fish, pickled vegetable (HKD368). The noodle soup represents what is most fun with Sichuan dining: dig your way through a dish for chunks of protein, vegetables, and carbs whilst avoiding the inescapable Sichuan peppers.
We enjoyed the milky and pickled soup base, which had a buttery taste to it before a slightly numbing tone arrived after. The fish was plump and soaked up the bitter-salty soup flavour.
I was skeptical but dessert arrived with one of two options, the best with the Sichuan pepper creme brulee (HKD78), an unusual sweet treat that marries a French dessert with a faint yet ever-present tingly spice. The vanilla soothes, whilst the pepper excites.
Our verdict of Sichuan Verandah
Expectedly at a hotel like Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour, dining at Sichuan Verandah is comfortable and the menu well-constructed. Fond of the Kowloon view which invites sunlight to soak the cool interior, it is equally a unique space to dine at. Not abundantly Chinese, but a fusion. Prices are high, but portions big, thus group dining is best for dining here.
Sichuan Verandah, 2/F, West Tower, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, 1 North Point Estate Lane, North Point, 3896 9900, book here
| Order this: deep fried chicken, boiled beef, Sichuan-style boiled mandarin fish Menu: à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD750 – HKD1,000 | Atmosphere: relaxed with a cute view of Kowloon City and Kai Tak from the North Point shore Perfect for: lovers of Sichuanese food but not threatening spice |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
