At DIECI, the menu changes each month or so to showcase 10 seasonal and regional Italian dishes alongside a handful each of starters and sweets. This “less is more” concept is at the core of Italian chef Paolo Olivieri’s “osteria futura” culinary philosophy: honouring tradition whilst, at the same time, looking towards the future with twists on classic recipes.
The monthly-changing dishes whipped up by chef Paolo are rooted in his childhood spent in the countryside village of Villa San Giovanni in the Lazio region of central Italy, where local, seasonal produce plays a key role at mealtimes.
Our dinner in May began like it would at any fine Italian home, with each table presented with freshly baked sourdough (courtesy of nearby bakery AMO•AGO) alongside a herbaceous organic olive oil from the chef’s hometown and pork butter made from Tuscan lardo. It’s these thoughtfully curated touches that make all the difference when dining out.
The pane (HKD48) is refillable, and as much as we were tempted to ask for seconds, we held back, conscious of the feast that was to follow.
Possibly the best prosciutto (HKD98) we’ve ever been lucky enough to lay our hands on, the 24-month dry-cured ham is delicate, silky, salty, sweet, and utterly melt-in-the mouth all at once.
The lumachine (HKD108), or sea snails, has already become a signature starter at DIECI. The locally caught snails have a unique crunchy texture that kept us going back for more – that and the delicious (slightly) spicy tomato sauce in which they are sautéed.
Forget about every other beef tartare you’ve ever tried as chef Paolo’s rendition has a true Italian soul. Inspired by Italy’s iconic meatballs in tomato sauce, the tartare (HKD228) at DIECI incorporates tomato, garlic, basil, 24-month Parmigiano-Reggiano, and olive oil into the finely chopped Fassona beef. The crowning glory is the Japanese egg yolk in the centre, just waiting to be mixed in. The chef changes things up yet again by serving a portion of homemade potato chips on the side.
Pasta is a must at any good Italian eatery, and DIECI offers several commendable pasta plates. Another menu mainstay, the pasta mista (HKD238) is a favourite for the freshness of the daily caught local kuruma prawns, naturally sweet but holding an intense umami richness in the head. The pasta itself, a mix of dried pasta shapes, is hearty and cooked perhaps a bit less than al dente, which is our preference.
The fresh tagliatelle (HKD198) is a limited-time regional speciality originating in northeastern Italy’s Veneto region. Chef Paolo has taken his cue from his grandmother’s family ragù recipe to craft this deeply concentrated duck ragù made with local duck meat and chicken liver, carrying a faintly gamy undertone.
Another new dish, but one that is already destined to become a signature, is the pollo alla leccarda (HKD298), here trading the guinea fowl used traditionally in Umbria for Hong Kong’s own beloved three-yellow chicken. The roasted chicken leg is golden, crispy, fatty, and absolutely sumptuous, made even more so with the accompanying sauce starring chicken liver. Keep some of that sourdough on hand for mopping up all the juices!
For dessert at DIECI, when in season, we recommend the refreshing sorbetto (HKD138), a bright, tart, and slightly bitter Amalfi lemon sorbet served in a whole lemon that makes for the ideal palate-cleanser.
Our verdict of DIECI
Cooking according to the seasons using both Italian and local ingredients keeps things fresh and vibrant at DIECI. The regional variety is another reason we rate DIECI’s succinct menu, along with the restaurant’s intimate, homey vibe and warm, heartfelt service. We’re in full agreement with chef Paolo that less is indeed more, and it seems many Hong Kongers feel the same way, with the eatery fully booked most nights and walk-in after walk-in turned away (graciously) at the door.
DIECI, B/F, 29–31 Gough Street, Central, WhatsApp 9077 2629, book here
| Order this: prosciutto, sea snails, tartare, pasta mista, three-yellow chicken, lemon sorbet Menu: DIECI menu Price for two: HKD700–900 | Atmosphere: a cosy basement space that’s retro in design, modelled after the trattorias of 1970s Lazio Perfect for: regional, seasonal Italian abundance |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
