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We recently revisited our Foodie Forks 2020 Editors’ Choice Best New Restaurant winner, Castellana, to taste some old favourites as well as new inspirations. The refined, elegant restaurant focuses on the bold flavours of the Piedmont region and is a collaboration with two-Michelin-starred chef Marco Sacco of Piccolo Lago in Italy.
Our lunch tasting began with a glossy slow-cooked egg with asparagus. The texture of the egg was almost gel-like thanks to the slow-cooking process at 65°C.
The classic vitello tonnato, a dish made up of creamed tuna, anchovy and caper purée wrapped in tender braised veal, arrived accented with celery root, bell pepper sponge and Pantelleria capers. We enjoyed the robust meatiness of the veal against the creaminess of the fish sauce.
A signature of Castellana, the tagliolini “au koque’’ carbonara sauce with Vigezzo Valley cured ham, was a luscious, sinful affair that got us scrapping our plates for the last remnants of the creamy sauce.
Another favourite was the tagliatelle with Japanese sea urchin, tossed in spicy olive oil, cherry tomatoes and basil. The sweet, creamy uni was a delicious contrast to the tart, vibrant sauce.
A new addition to the menu, the skate wing with Robiola cheese and smoked trout eggs was cooked twice, first steamed, then pan-seared to maximise its flavour. The creamed cheese was tart and a tad too rich for us to finish.
A traditional dessert in Piedmont, the Italian white peach with chocolate and almond was drizzled with a velvety peach sauce. The flavour combination was a bit odd for us, although we know it’s based on a classic flavour combination of the region.
Verdict
Castellana offers a refreshing take on Italian cuisine, away from the stereotypical, predicable dishes, giving diners a taste of authentic Piedmont cuisine. The dishes shown here are plucked from various menus, ranging from the three-course lunch menu ($280) to the seven-course dinner menu ($1,280). Fine dining for $280 a head – now, that’s definitely a good deal!
10/F, CUBUS, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, 3188 5028, book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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