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As a Hong Kong Island resident, Kowloon Shangri-La hadn’t really been on my radar. But then I got to know some people who grew up in Hong Kong and have fond memories of family dinners there as a child. So when I finally got the chance to visit the hotel and try Angelini (its Italian restaurant), I wasn’t super surprised to see various families dining together. It might not be a restaurant you hear about often, but it’s a firm favourite for many.
To get to the restaurant, I walked up a carpeted staircase and then down a long, narrow hallway, which somehow made it feel like I was going somewhere old school and special. The decor at Angelini is indeed old school, with patterned carpets and lots of red accents.
We came to try Chef Andrea Burzio’s degustation dinner menu ($888/person). Chef Burzio, who has been with Angelini for nearly two years, grew up in the northern Italian city of Turin and aims to introduce the flavours of his home town to diners.
We started with vitello tonnato. A classic done well.
The asparago and culatello course uses white asparagus, black truffle hollandaise and culatello ham. A richer dish that still feels light and fresh.
The ravioli is filled with crab, white asparagus and basil pesto. For us, the flavours were a little muted and the texture too soft.
Another richer dish that still feels light and fresh is the baked salmon with pineapple beurre blanc and chives. An unusual yet delicious combination.
For dessert, we were served a slice of traditional lemon custard cake.
Our meal ended with selezione di te e caffe, translated as small pastries with coffee or tea.
While we enjoyed several aspects of our meal at Angelini and love the Shangri-La brand, there were a few areas that didn’t quite meet our expectations. In terms of value, the price of $888 seems quite steep given the simplicity of many of the dishes and ingredients. The service was also uneven for both the dishes and the wine pairing ($488/person), not up to the standards we’re used to seeing at Shangri-La restaurants. Perhaps we visited on an off night.
Despite our quibbles, Angelini remains a charming Italian restaurant, a special hideaway in TST. Those looking for a quiet spot to wine and dine loved ones might enjoy Angelini.
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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