Do you remember the cold snap of January ‘24? Lives weren’t lost in the winter, but UNIQLO surely made a good buck on Hong Kongers rushing to buy HEATTECH thermal clothing to warm up their cold skin.
My week of “freezing temperatures” was warmed by a visit to Grand Hyatt Steakhouse at the Grand Hyatt hotel stationed in northern Wan Chai. I had started salivating the night prior to ingesting the salty steak fat.
The hotel steakhouse only opened in 2011, but entering the restaurant will date you to the 1990s with its oak tables, orange- and pink-hued chandeliers, renaissance paintings, geometric-shaped silver ceiling, and purple drapes.
Grand Hyatt Steakhouse imports its steaks from the USA, Australia, Canada, and Korea, the nation from which we sampled fine Hanwoo steak cuts for the main action at our Tuesday dinner.
Manning myself with a Steakhouse Punch (HKD160), this Prohibition-inspired tipple awakens the senses with an intoxicating mix of rye whisky, calvados, lime, cinnamon, and cream. The cocktail smells like Christmas with its strong cinnamon tone.
The magic at Grand Hyatt Steakhouse began with a sharing of sweet-tinged, pan-fried foie gras (HKD320), yellowtail tartare (HKD280), and Caesar salad (HKD180). A fan of foie gras, this version impressed me with its tender bite.
Dressing the duck liver in a cherry compote and cognac flambé, served with a side of brioche, the foie gras cuts are soft in texture and meaty-nutty in flavour. I do prefer a puréed version of foie gras, but the Grand Hyatt’s take is refreshing with the woody addition of cognac.
I was thoroughly impressed with the strength of the Caesar salad, a win in my books for a suitable side served at a regal steakhouse like Grand Hyatt. Forget the mixing; this Caesar version features whole lettuce leaves and anchovies to soak up the moreish tangy and creamy sauce. Throw in a Parmesan slice to bite and the salty salad makes you crave more and more.
Up next, the French onion soup (HKD180) landed on our table, topped with a golden, crispy slice of Gruyère cheese to match the sweet touch of the onion consommé. The broth has depth with a boney and beef-like touch, sans any meat ingredients. As expected, the Gruyère is sharp, with a herby aroma.
Passing the American, Japanese, and French starters, we dove deep in South Korea to explore Hanwoo. Hong Kong is one of four countries granted access to Hanwoo beef, alongside Malaysia, Macau, and Cambodia. Only 0.02% of South Korea’s Hanwoo beef is exported, with Hong Kong taking 90% of the cut.
Not as lean nor having a strong beef flavour like American steak, and with a fat concentration below Wagyu, Hanwoo maintains a delicious 50-50 balance of meat to fat. Both the Hanwoo striploin (HKD1,200/12oz) and Hanwoo rib-eye (HKD1,200/12oz) graced our table, and we readied our forks.
The striploin holds a firmness that oozes with salty beef juice on the palate. The fat content is low, and I was impressed with the texture of the medium-rare cut. The rib-eye resembles more common cuts, with glazed fat tracing the meat, assisting in the cooking process. The steak is cooked in its own fat, wrapping each bite with bulbs of buttery pink salt.
We enjoyed three sides alongside our Hanwoo steaks: macaroni and cheese (HKD95), broccolini (HKD95), and sautéed portobello mushrooms (HKD95). Don’t expect mellow American mac ’n’ cheese style, but a sharp Parmesan flavour to the macaroni. The broccolini does not offer much apart from a little chilli bite, whilst the mushrooms hold a rich, umami flavour and honeyed coating, helped by a sizzling Maillard reaction.
Dinner ended with the Washington apple crumble (HKD120), providing a satisfying texture and sweet blast that brings a crunch with the streusel topping and softness from the sautéed apples and raisins.
Our verdict of Grand Hyatt Steakhouse
Very few steakhouses in Hong Kong have access to Hanwoo steak, and Grand Hyatt Steakhouse excels in its mission to deliver smoky, salty, and beefy flavours. The starters complement the palate, balancing the fat content of the steak cuts, whilst the macaroni and cheese and mushroom sides further the umami factor. The apple crumble was a sweet and appropriate ending to cleanse our palate and wish us well.
To keep up with the times, a clean renovation is needed at Grand Hyatt Steakhouse to equal the modern elegance of competing steakhouses in Hong Kong. The worldly steak cuts ought to match the interior of a leading restaurant.
Grand Hyatt Steakhouse, Lobby, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, 2584 7722, book here
| Order this: Caesar salad, bone marrow, Hanwoo rib-eye, dirty fried potatoes, Washington apple crumble Menu: Grand Hyatt Steakhouse dinner menu Price for two: HKD2,000–HKD2,500 | Atmosphere: posh and regal in design, concealed from the hotel and Wan Chai surrounds Perfect for: lengthy dinners that involve a few cocktails and several starters before the main show of a juicy steak |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
