Can one ingredient win a restaurant a Michelin star? When applied in the correct manner and used effectively, the answer is undoubtedly yes. Mora in Sheung Wan focuses on soy and its manifold uses, crafting tasting menus that promote a true Hong Kong food product.
The restaurant won its first star in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide and earned its chef, Choi Ming Fai, the MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award. Located on Upper Lascar Row, or Cat Street as the cool kids have nicknamed it, the restaurant itself is assured and confident, yet minimal in its presentation, just like the nimble soy products it spotlights.
Mora’s soy milk and other soy items are sourced from local Hong Kong provider Shu Kee and presented in the first course of the lunch tasting menu (HKD580 pp) in the form of a cup of warm soy milk and a bean-curd tartlet.
Combining pumpkin-soy foam, soy ricotta, pumpkin-seed pesto, and chestnut and served on a bed of dried soybeans, each bite of the tartlet amuse-bouche kick-starts the palate in a creamy and vibrant manner.
Most of the vegetable products at Mora are sourced from local Hong Kong terroir, produced by Farmhouse Productions, Urban Grow, and Zen Organic Farm. This ensures that the menu promotes real Hong Kong tastes, not simply abiding by its tagline.
The deep-fried tofu, Mora’s second lunch course, was my favourite. The warmth of the sesame sauce warmed my whole body, with this sensation continuing with the great mouthfeel of the tofu itself, fried lightly to perfection. The radish offers a much-needed acidic touch to the dish.
We shared a bowl of Mora’s udon noodles (+HKD98), which, again, highlight the chef’s soy craftsmanship to heighten creamy textures and umami flavours. The added garlic oil drizzled over the udon is a nice touch.
For our mains, we both opted for the crispy threadfin, which was fried and finished with a torching on its crispy skin and presented on a bed of a chicken fat and soy emulsion with braised soybeans. Each bite of the fish provokes great smoky aromatics, also sharing buttery and salty flavours when dunked into the chicken fat. This is an indulgent dish and a must-order in my books.
The penultimate dish we tried was the mushroom rice. I felt that it needed a bit more oomph to match the other dishes. It’s pleasant with the presence of soybean paste, but the pickled ginger does not shine through. I wish the umami levels were heightened in this dish.
This great meal was sadly over with the final course, tofu pudding. Black rice soy ice cream meets a persimmon compote for a delectable finish to the menu. Sweet, but not overwhelmingly nap-inducing, this dish shows soy’s power in a sugary format.
Our verdict of Mora
Mora is a restaurant that deserves more attention for its commitment to perfecting its craft by focusing on one main ingredient. The chef tells a true Hong Kong story with his local sourcing and menu creation. Book yourself in for lunch or dinner – you will not regret it.
Mora, G/F, 40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, 9683 8590, book here
| Order this: five-course lunch tasting menu Menu: Mora seasonal tasting menus Price for two for lunch: HKD1,200 | Atmosphere: not so serious, as opposed to its Hong Kong contemporaries, with friendly service to match its relaxed approach Perfect for: exploring true Hong Kong food at a fine-dining level |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
