Famed for their ubiquity and access in decades prior, dai pai dongs have become a dying art in the city, numbering only 18 from the count of hundreds operating in Hong Kong in the late 20th century.
The streetside and aircon-less restaurants are notable for their use of heavy spice and garlic, cooking with propane-heated woks, and dishing out affordable Cantonese meals. Due to a government pause issuing dai pai dong licences in the 1950s, fewer dai pai dong have survived today.
Whilst few dai pai dongs survive on our streets, a new wealth of dai pai dong restaurants have opened in Hong Kong emulating the raw energy of the expiring food culture in Hong Kong.
The best dai pai dongs in Hong Kong
Oi Man Sing (愛文生)
Regarded as the OG on the scene, Oi Man Sing has breathed fire into the wok since 1956, stationed in an open-air space with the kitchen on street level. Whilst the aircon may be lacking, the heat emanating off the wok and spice-infusion on the dishes raises the energy levels at this dai pai dong. Dishes we recommend include the fried razor clams with black beans, typhoon shelter-style crab, stir-fried pepper with diced beef and potato, and deep fried salt-and-pepper squid.
Oi Man Sing, G/F, 1A-1C Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po Building, Sham Shui Po, 2393 9315
Sing Kee (盛記)
A dai pai dong that has survived Central’s rapid urbanisation and gentrification over the decades, Sing Kee is a popular all-day dining spot exposed to the elements and sheltered underneath a series of large umbrellas. The lunchtime menu includes cha chaan teng favourites like lemongrass pork with rice and salty congee. Their sweet & sour pork, grouper fillet with bean curd in clay pot, sizzling chicken in pot, and boiled pork intestines are must-orders for dinner.
Sing Kee, G/F, 82 Stanley Street, Central, 2541 5678
Temple Spice Crabs (廟街香辣蟹)
As noted in their name, Temple Spice Crabs excels in frying crabs, among other crunchy seafood dishes, with a healthy amount of garlic, five spice, and pepper for a seafood dai pai dong bite. The deep fried crispy pomfret, spicy fresh squids, and fried bally fish are also hits in the seafood-centric dai pai dong. The restaurant is accommodating for big groups.
Temple Spice Crabs, G/F, 203 Temple Street, Jordan
Tung Po (東寶小館)
Arguably one of the more popular names in the dai pai dong scene this side of the century, Tung Po brings the ruckus with a menu packed with the typical salty and garlicky items, featuring chicken liver, bean sprouts with salty fish, wind sand chicken, salt and pepper tofu, and deep-fried pork knuckle, among other classics, a lot of beer to share, and karaoke. When visiting, make sure to catch owner Robby Cheung and his dancing antics throughout the night. The later you go, the better for catching impromptu karaoke and diners letting loose.
Tung Po, 2/F, KONNECT, 303 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai, 2880 5224
ChorLand Cookfood Stall (楚撚記大排檔)
ChorLand throws a twist on the traditions of dai pai dong culture with a menu expanding on dai pai dong menus, with dishes such as the beef balls with truffle butter, sweet & sour pork with sugar frosting, and golden sweetcorn sharing the limelight. Their Shek Tong Tsui, Tok Kwu Wan, and Tsuen Wan restaurants are dressed in green with Cantonese signage and menu boards, reminiscent of the old 1990s dai pai dong style.
ChorLand Cookfood Stall, multiple locations across Hong Kong
Chan Kun Kee (陳根記)
This dai pai dong, formerly located inside a housing estate, now calls the outside of a Shek Mun shopping mall home, keeping the frenetic energy alive. The indoor stall hosts large circular tables and barebones seating. The hand-pulled wasabi chicken, roasted baby pork, and barbecued pigeon show off Chan Kun Kee’s contemporary touch introducing new items to the culture. Don’t forget to order the mango pancake ice cream for dessert!
Chan Kun Kee, Shop 5, G/F, Kings Wing Plaza 2, No.1 On Kwan Street, Shek Mun, Sha Tin, 2606 1390
Wing Fat Seafood Restaurant (榮發大排檔)
Wing Fat Seafood Restaurant is located inside the Woosung Street Temporary Cooked Food Hawker Bazaar, a collective of half a dozen small dai pai dong’s in the Yau Ma Tei neighbourhood. The dai pai dong specialises in seafood and clay pot dishes. Their braised clams with oil and salt, braised bombay duck fish, boiled sea snails with spicy Chinese wine, and stir-fried clams with black bean sauce offer robust flavours on the table.
Wing Fat Seafood Restaurant, Shop 6-8, Temporary Cooked Food Hawker Bazaar, 29-39 Woosung Street, Yau Ma Tei, 6938 8472
Dai Lee Dai Pai Dong (大利大排檔)
This family-operated dai pai dong is yet another starry spot in Sham Shui Po scene, this time housed in an indoor food hall complete with fans and aircon to leave you cool whilst you scoff your hot wok hei-cooked plates. Dai Lee Dai Pai Dong does a fantastic pepper chicken pot with pork offal, pig’s trotter with chicken feet, and mixed stir fry with Chinese chives and dried shrimp. The dai pai dong also serves hot pot with a large spread of ingredients.
Dai Lee Dai Pai Dong, Shop CF1, 2/F, Cooked Food Centre, Pei Ho Street Market, 333 Ki Lung Street, Sham Shui Po, 9619 7148
Mui Kee Cookfood Stall (妹記大排檔)
Mui Kee is another dai pai dong bringing the outdoors dining culture indoors for cleaner cooking. With two spots in Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok, the energy and service is raw, just like your streetside and steaming hot dai pai dongs. Garlic chicken with cashew nuts, morning glory with salted fish, steamed scallop with garlic, and beef tenderloin with fried potatoes all score high on the menu and deserve your tasting.
Mui Kee Cookfood Stall, 3/F, Tern Plaza, 5 Cameron Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721 2123
Mui Kee Cookfood Stall, Shop B, 2/F, Witty Commercial Building, 1A-1J Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, 2833 6228
Keung Kee Dai Pai Dong (強記大牌檔)
Serving diners streetside, as opposed to the indoor luxuries of an aircon-filled room, Keung Kee Dai Pai Dong is a humble Kowloon-based dai pai dong that serves breakfast all the way through to dinner. Whilst not as busy nor popular as neighbours Oi Man Sing, Keung Kee strikes well on the key wok hei flavours with their dishes. Order the clam with black bean and chilli, beef ho fan noodles, baby pak choi with garlic, and claypot rice with aubergine and pork.
Keung Kee Dai Pai Dong, G/F, 219 Ki Lung Street, Sham Shui Po
Dai Pai Dong Siu Chow (大排檔小炒)
This small dai pai dong chain sees two spots located around the corner from each other, serving up a mix of Guangdong and Cantonese dishes. Expect the classic dai pai dong dishes touched up with nice plating and more premium ingredients. Inclusive of the honey beef cubes with potato, chilli boiled fish, dace filled three treasures, and salt-and-pepper tofu, their menu is heavy on spice, umami, and meat.
Dai Pai Dong Small Dishes, Shop A, G/F, Wah Fat Mansion, 405-419 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, 2336 6664
Dai Pai Dong Small Dishes, G/F, Kam Fung Commercial Building, 2-4 Tin Lok Lane, Wan Chai, 2515 2222
Daisy Kitchen (紫京海鮮飯)
Open till 2AM inside the Sai Ying Pun cooked food centre, Daisy Kitchen is a humble indoors dai pai dong holding only a dozen tables with a menu of the familiar favourites. Oyster omelette, squid with salt & yolk, eggplant with minced pork, and their chicken casserole dishes are one to take note of. This dai pai dong is suitable for a more intimate dining experience.
Daisy Kitchen, 2/F, Centre Street Market, 44 Centre Street, Sai Ying Pun, 2547 5899
Taiyuan Street Restaurant (泰源大排檔)
The Fo Tan-based Taiyuan Street Restaurant has enjoyed many years of celebrity in the area, most notably for its convenience, comfort, and aura. Operating for more than 30 years, the dai pai dong is a cherished haunt. Travelling to the Fo Tan restaurant, we recommend their grilled pigeon, stir-fried mussels with bean curd and pepper, chicken congee, and salt-and-pepper fried cuttlefish.
Taiyuan Street Restaurant, G/F, Fo Tan Cooked Food Market (East), Shan Mei Street, Fo Tan
