Opening officially on Mar. 25, ALWAYS JOY, Yardbird’s sister restaurant and the newest izakaya on the block, feels more listening room and music studio than restaurant; it is otherworldly, which works to its advantage.
The lighting is soft and muted, the ceiling is padded in criss-crossing panels to soak up the chatter, and the counter is decked out in stainless steel. In the kitchen, made open plan, the chefs operate in silence but complete concentration, whilst the servers are dressed in white or black tees, Carhartt, and Converse.
As mentioned in an interview with Foodie in September 2024, Lindsay Jang and co-founder Matt Abergel aren’t going Japanese with this new venture, but the signs are there. The sauces and recipes feel Japanese adjacent, but they follow a blend of every cuisine the pair have encountered since arriving in Hong Kong in 2009.
The show began with heightened flavour combinations in the citrus salad, butter lettuce, Parmesan cheese (HKD130), one of many greens on the menu. Tangerine quarters mix well with the dollops of Parmesan cheese and the addition of the typhoon shelter crumble spread atop. This is a dish that cleans the palate and wakes it for the bolder flavours down the road.
Where ALWAYS JOY’s funkiness comes out to play is with the tomato rice, Leone olives (HKD70), joining a tomato-braised rice bowl together with sun-dried tomato and the unforgettable smoked olives made at Bar Leone.
Each bite trades between sweet and salty flavours, complemented by the sugary tang of the tomato and the hit of the pickled olives. This dish feels alive!
Swimming in a pool of warm soy sauce, the braised grouper (HKD220) is a classic in the making. Bits of gobo (burdock root), chayote (squash), and leek bathe in the sauce, making for a warm umami bite. The fish itself is plump and just fatty enough, acting as a salty medium to drink up all that lovely salty sauce!
Right after the grouper, we were served the heads and tails, Fragrant caramel (HKD190), a phenomenal dish. It is simply made, coating fish heads and tails with cornmeal and wrapping the fish in a lightly spiced caramel sauce.
Using Fragrant, a locally produced chilli sauce, the fish carries a honey flavour, with a tiny tingle of heat at the end – a dish that warms the heart.
The blackened bean butter, grilled market greens (HKD98) came last onto the table before dessert. I wish this vegetable dish harnessed a stronger flavour. As a fan of black bean sauce, I was looking for a greater umami hit, especially with the grill of the pak choi, which I was hoping could have been left longer to brown.
Our verdict of ALWAYS JOY
Starting off strong in its first week, I was impressed with how refined the food and drinks menus are already at ALWAYS JOY. The dishes carry a Japanese influence but are largely contemporary. Come with friends and order plenty of drinks. Expect a mélange of flavours at your table and prepare to sit for awhile snacking.
ALWAYS JOY, Shop 1, G/F, Nam Wo Hong Building, 148 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, 2110 0148, book here
| Order this: heads and tails, braised grouper, tomato rice Menu: not available online Price for two: HKD400–600 | Atmosphere: at ALWAYS JOY, you are greeted like family and treated like a guest at their home Perfect for: dragging your foodie friends to enjoy a party at a restaurant without the loud music and dancing |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
