Occupied formerly by a bougie Japanese steakhouse, one of Wyndham Street’s largest spaces has now been filled up with Yakiniku Sho, a fusion Japanese-Korean teppanyaki joint. Full bellies and top-grade Wagyu meat are to be expected here, of course.
The restaurant is owner Shoji Tsugawa’s third in Hong Kong, with the Japanese-Korean taking on the best of A5 black Wagyu in two omakase menus priced at HKD490 and HKD790 per person. The former is called Don’t Think “Yasu” and holds 14 plates, whilst the latter has 17. We opted for the 17-course menu – Don’t Think “Sho” – because our eyes are hungrier than our stomach!
The set menu begins with what came to be my favourite dish of the evening, the fresh Wagyu tartare, which carries a pickled and crunchy texture with the additions of wasabi sauce and pickled radish, and the goma goma K-salad. The salad is refreshing, acting as a palate cleanser with its touches of sesame oil, chilli powder, and Korean-style dressing.
Where one Korean element comes into play alongside the grilling of the restaurant’s premium meat is the service; the staff come to your table to grill the Wagyu in front of your eyes, serving with care and advising on which sauces and seasonings to use in order to amplify the flavours.
My favourite cuts of this meaty section of the set menu are the prime tongue, which melts on the tongue as soon as you start chomping, misuji briand, which pairs nicely with the spicy seasoning and carries a bite to it, and togarashi with its juicy texture.
Beyond the meat, this menu contains two grilled sides, three “Korean dishes,” and two rice and dessert plates.
In the grilled sides section, the Japanese sweet potato offers respite from the salty but tasty onslaught of Wagyu. I wish the Korean rice cake in this section had been more grilled, as the carbohydrate was slightly too bouncy for my liking.
Yakiniku Sho’s steamed egg is a pleasant dish to share on the table, offsetting the denser textures of the meat. It is fluffy and sweet from an infusion of Kewpie mayonnaise – all in all, a very pleasant dish.
The ever-Korean spicy tofu hotpot brings out a Hallyu touch to the menu with a hint of much-needed spice and sour on the table.
Two hours into the meal (and after all that beef), I could not finish the one-bite cold noodle and bite-sized rice with raw egg; there was no more space left in my stomach, after having enjoyed the Wagyu platter and Korean dishes. It would be more fitting to directly follow the main beefy act of the menu with the simple sea salt caramel soft-serve ice cream.
As classic as it gets, the soft serve was much needed to send us on our merry, sugary way. There always seems to be space for dessert!
Our verdict of Yakiniku Sho
I enjoyed my meal at Yakiniku Sho and understand and appreciate the concept, fusing the worlds of Japan and Korean food. Whilst I expected more fusion in the flavours, with the Wagyu beef perhaps employing Korean seasonings and sauces or the side dishes blending piquant and salty flavours, the Japanese Wagyu here is special and the specifically Korean dishes are great add-ons.
I would caution, however, to come hungry and prepare to eat continuously for two hours throughout the 17-course menu. It is great value, but only when you set your mind to eat, eat, eat.
Yakiniku Sho, Shop 3, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street, Central, 2327 2233, book here
| Order this: Don’t Think “Sho” menu Menu: Yakiniku Sho omakase menus Price for two: about HKD1,600 | Atmosphere: quiet amidst the chaos of Central, with boosted comfort Perfect for: foodies seeking a bit of a twist on the classic teppanyaki experience |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
