One of the foodie trends for 2026 highlighted in our recent article, casual Italian dining is on the rise, and The Spoon, a neighbourhood pasta bar on Central’s vibey Gough Street, perfectly fits the bill – this time with an Asian twist.
Like all good osterias, The Spoon is warm and welcoming, with homemade pasta dishes at its core. Affable chef Dylan transfers his Malaysian heritage to the plate in a series of dynamic fusion recipes.
The pasta bestseller (we’re told 80% of tables order it) for good reason is the seafood brown butter tomato rigatoooooooni (HKD168). The quirky dish name is due to the “naughty” ultra-long and thin rigatoni fashioned by chef Dylan, offering a cracking chew. The pasta strands are textured, which allows for the sauce to cling on for dear life.
The seafood (prawn, squid, and scallop) showcased is as fresh as can be, and the light sauce is tomatoey, buttery, nutty perfection. The dish is crowned with a dollop of milky, creamy stracciatella, otherwise known as the “heart” of burrata, which appears to be a favourite ingredient of chef Dylan, featuring in a number of dishes.
Another East-meets-West pasta we rate is the Wagyu bolognese ragù bianco with curry coconut cream pappardelle (HKD156), conveying a strong connection to Southeast Asia. The coconut adds creamy richness and a certain je ne sais quoi that is a great match for the lush bolognese. The pappardelle itself is tender and silky.
The crabmeat with lemon chilli mixed pasta (HKD188) is a more traditionally Italian offering, but delicious nonetheless. We like the chef’s use of two types of pasta – thick and wide pappardelle and thinner linguine – for variety, similar to the different noodles used in laksa.
Bruschetta bites and small sharing plates to start also feature on the all-day menu.
The beef tenderloin tartare (HKD138) comes heaped atop toasted homemade focaccia. The texture is pleasantly chunky, standing up to the punchy, tangy elements intermingled with the beef, including curry aioli and mustard.
Also using the pillowy focaccia as a base, the silky-smooth foie gras and kaya pâté (HKD72) is a genius fusion combination. At fine-dining restaurants, foie gras is often balanced with a sweet touch, particularly fruit, and at The Spoon, the rich coconut flavour of the kaya pours fuel on the foie gras’ umami undertone.
For a non-bready dish to kick things off, the pickled plum cherry tomato with stracciatella and red chilli oil (HKD72) is a good bet. Here, luxurious stracciatella cheese comes into play once again. The tomatoes are unbelievably sweet with a hint of acidity from the marinade. The inclusion of chilli oil is a risky move by chef Dylan that pays off.
We recommend upgrading your gelato (HKD48) to come with a portion of salted caramel lava cake (HKD68), the only other dessert on the menu. Our scoop was aromatic pandan gelato, with the dense lava cake carrying a touch of savouriness.
We were too stuffed to try one of the three non-pasta main dishes offered at The Spoon, but they sound like they warrant another visit, particularly the baked bak kut teh short rib with pesto and chilli oil (HKD398).
Our verdict of The Spoon
We’re all for the opening of more affordable, accessible Italian restaurants like The Spoon. On the Monday evening of our visit, just a few weeks after the eatery’s debut, the place was packed, with a queue waiting for one of the dozen or so tables to free up (there are also a few coveted seats at the bar facing the kitchen action). We are thoroughly impressed with chef Dylan’s well-conceived fusion pasta plates, wallet-friendly price tags, and on-trend, inviting vibe.
The Spoon, G/F, 24 Gough Street, Central, 5109 1019
| Order this: beef tartare, foie gras and kaya pâté, pickled plum cherry tomato with stracciatella and red chilli oil, seafood brown butter tomato rigatoooooooni, Wagyu bolognese ragù bianco with curry coconut cream pappardelle, salted caramel lava cake with gelato Menu: The Spoon menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: small, cosy, and buzzy; the open kitchen design makes for a relaxed, convivial feel Perfect for: pasta lovers on the lookout for the next big thing |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
