On a road as old as modern Hong Kong, and within a building that has stood for 103 years, Pedder Chinese opened just two months ago as the newest addition to this living piece of history in Central.
The restaurant’s marketing campaign centres itself around the theme of a “contemporary interpretation of Cantonese cuisine rooted in heritage,” but an unadulterated savouring of the menu reveals itself as a Chinese banquet restaurant that is allowed to breathe and adapt to modern tastes.
There are many, many banquet-style restaurants operating in Hong Kong. They typically host a dinership intimately associated with the restaurant, whether habitually hosting celebratory family occasions or living in close proximity. No one lives in the real centre of Central and very few banquet restaurants open as brand new, they simply mature with grace and age in Hong Kong.
Thus, Pedder Chinese has to fight for attention with banquet diners by intriguing those with a taste of the familiar, yet cooking dishes that capture best on your camera app.
Assumingly crafted with an eye in mind, the stir-fried sole with leek (HKD888) brings together a toothsome fish, notably soft to taste, with a twirling body standing tall on the plate with both spicy and non-spicy meat plated beside.
The spicy sole meat carries a strong garlic punch, followed by a tingle on the tongue. I especially enjoyed the crisp sole body which was fun to crunch and play with on the plate.
Another signature at Pedder Chinese, that attempts to bring a classic Cantonese dish into a new light, is the crispy skin chicken in two ways (HKD428).
This deconstructed bird comes in two courses, the first with the crispy skin arriving in oily toastettes with plum sauce, offering an unctuous yet fatty bite, and the second where large chicken giblets arrive in a bowl with a typhoon shelter style dusting of garlic and pepper.
My favourite dish during my meal at Pedder Chinese was the braised oxtail in red wine claypot (HKD268).
The combination of the boney meat cuts with fresh tomatoes lends to an enriching umami flavour. Each slurp of the red soupy sauce paired with rice is heart-warming and beefy. This is the perfect sharing dish.
We ended the meal with the wooden-bucket silky tofu pudding (HKD98 per person). It is rare to find a restaurant preparing tofu pudding in the traditional manner and serving the whole bucket on the table for a party to enjoy. This in itself lent a more traditional tone to the meal. We finalised the filling festivities in classy fashion.
Our verdict of Pedder Chinese
Pedder Chinese adds flair to dishes you have enjoyed before but deserved a fancy twist. Group dinners and business deals are fitting for this restaurant, with the basement setting adding a level of secrecy and sophistication.
Pedder Chinese, LG/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central
| Order this: stir-fried sole with leek, braised oxtail in red wine claypot Menu: à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD500 – HKD750 | Atmosphere: as expected from a banquet restaurant, speedy service and large tables Perfect for: Chinese banquet lovers and group dinners for visitors |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
