When we think of Spanish dining in Hong Kong, one chef usually springs to mind: Edgard Sanuy Barahona.
Going way back to 2013, we welcomed chef Edgard into our city’s restaurant scene with our Foodie Forks Chef of the Year award for his work at former Soho tapas bar BCN.
The chef came full circle just last year with another Foodie Forks award, this time for Best Spanish Restaurant 2025 in recognition of newcomer Aire by Epicurean Group, where he worked for several years as head of all of the F&B group’s Spanish restaurants.
With Lola María, chef Edgard has ventured out on his own to introduce this casual street-level Spanish restaurant to Hong Kongers. Like the eatery’s double-barrelled name, the chef takes two culinary approaches; María’s side of the menu sticks to long-established Spanish recipes, whilst Lola, the more modern of the two, leans towards experimentation.
We’re here for the contrast, experiencing the best of both Spanish worlds.
As expected, chef Edgard’s traditional contenders – like the Ibérico ham croquette (HKD28/pc), garlic shrimp (HKD150), Galician-style octopus (HKD165), and black seafood rice (HKD220) – are Spanish classics done right. Yet it’s his more creative interpretations and inventions that set Lola María apart.
Take the restaurant’s chilled gazpacho (HKD68), a refreshing cold puréed vegetable soup originating in Andalusia, which veers from tradition with its bursts of sweet, juicy watermelon balls added to the tangy, vinegary mix. In terms of texture, it’s as smooth as silk. We licked the bowl clean!
The gazpacho is served in a cute watermelon-shaped vessel, a whimsical touch that’s testament to chef Edgard’s meticulous nature. The chef spent months sourcing all the dishware for Lola María, unique to each menu item. Our favourite just might be the acorn-shaped plate on which the ham croquettes (made with 100% acorn-fed Ibérico ham, of course) are served.
The air baguette with beef cecina (HKD25/pc) is a fun two-biter to kick things off. The hollow mini baguette, as crisp as crisp can be, is wrapped with slices of cured Spanish beef, similar to Ibérico ham in appearance and mouthfeel but much more robust in flavour.
Lola María’s beef tartare (HKD68/pc) has an even more intense flavour profile owing to the trifecta of pickled egg yolk, anchovy, and smoked olives, which come courtesy of Bar Leone. This piquant mixture is piled atop toasted and buttered brioche to achieve one of the most satisfying nibbles we’ve had thus far in 2026.
Perhaps the most talked-about item on the menu, the salted codfish doughnut (HKD45/pc) defies its delicate appearance. The bacalao batter makes for an airy, fluffy, savoury doughnut with just a touch of sweetness. Tying it all together are the aioli glaze and scattering of red onion flakes.
If we were to reorder just one dish at Lola María, it would have to be the lamb pincho moruno (HKD235), another example of the clash between heritage and modernity. Popular in Andalusia, pincho moruno is a Spanish-style kebab with origins attributed to the Moorish influences of nearby North Africa.
The char on the lamb cubes is bar none, and the marinated meat, spiced heavily, is tender and dripping with juices. Where the chef’s originality comes to the fore is with the show-stealing accoutrement of smoked eggplant cream, which reminds us of Middle Eastern baba ganoush. Here, meat meets smoke in a sensational pairing of lamb and aubergine.
A rival for the best dish of our tasting – and one of the top desserts we’ve ever encountered in Hong Kong – the whole orange (HKD75) utilises every last bit of the fruit, from the skin to the seeds. As with the watermelon-laced gazpacho we tried earlier in the meal, this newly invented dessert is presented with playful panache in an orange-shaped ceramic pot.
The meal-ender incorporates just about every orange element you can imagine (small pieces of fresh orange, orange jam, citrus-accented Catalan cream), along with a base of vanilla ice cream and a caramelised cinnamon foam top layer. It’s complex and not overly sweet (the greatest dessert compliment you can give in Hong Kong).
Our verdict of Lola María
Chef Edgard has done it again, this time in a space he can truly call home. Lola María is the chef’s baby, and he is justly proud of this restaurant marrying the heritage of Spain with his culinary experiences around the world and very own ingenuity. Order a range of different dishes to share, get stuck in, and you’ll be very happy indeed.
Insider tip: though the area isn’t open for bookings, the upstairs counter seating, opposite the open kitchen and looking down on the main dining room, is the place to be. The perfect spot to sip an aperitif as you wait for your table to be ready, these seats are also available for walk-ins when the downstairs area is full.
Lola María, Shop D, G/F, CentreStage, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, 6916 4351, book here
| Order this: beef tartare, salted codfish doughnut, gazpacho with watermelon, lamb pincho moruno, garlic shrimp, black seafood rice, the whole orange Menu: Lola María menu Price for two: HKD800–1,000 | Atmosphere: lively yet relaxed; a traditional-meets-contemporary space that mirrors the chef’s culinary ethos. You won’t be able to stop humming along to the catchy playlist, with tunes ranging from the Grease soundtrack to “La Bamba” Perfect for: those looking for the real Spanish deal in Hong Kong, but who aren’t afraid to experiment |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
