It’s hard to keep track of all the Japanese restaurants continually opening in Hong Kong, but GYU+bar by miyoshi manages to set itself apart with one thing: its custom-built lava-rock kiln.
The Japanese-French bar and restaurant (a wide passageway separates the two spaces), dark and sexy, at Lee Garden One in Causeway Bay is not your typical mall-side diner. The focus here is on wood-fired cooking, top-tier Wagyu beef in particular. Tsutomu Ito of Kyoto’s renowned Wagyu kaiseki restaurant Niku no Takumi Miyoshi and chef Ayumi Matsuda, who also hails from Kyoto, celebrate the power of the open flame.
The tasting menus, priced from HKD368 per person for lunch and from HKD688 per person for dinner, deliver the most bang for your buck.
As expected, the restaurant’s Wagyu items made the biggest impression on our taste buds, kicking off with the Hokkaido Shiraoi, black Wagyu from Hokkaido known for its prominent marbling and fruity flavour. Air-dried in-house in the Italian style, the thinly sliced bresaola is draped across a charcoal choux filled with earthy miso-cauliflower purée. The contrast between red and black is striking.
Then there’s the luscious Wagyu hire (+HKD100). In this dish, impossibly tender reserve-seared A5 Wagyu tenderloin is complemented by grilled asparagus, creamy mashed potato, and a rich red wine sauce, elevating the typical meat-and-two-veg experience to the nth degree.
It’s not all beef though; GYU+bar by miyoshi’s grilled seafood selections also deserve a look-in. The lobster tail is a cracking specimen, with the accompanying cloud-like kabocha gnocchi and foamy américaine sauce bringing out the crustacean’s natural briny and sweet flavours.
The restaurant’s dessert selections are also standouts in presentation and execution. We were enamoured with both the dense pistachio Basque-style cheesecake and hojicha éclair with its delightful smoky, earthy undertones.
Our verdict of GYU+bar by miyoshi
GYU+bar by miyoshi’s polished look and wood-fired cooking expertise belie the approachable cost of the tasting menus on offer.
There were a few disappointments along the way – notably, the signature char siu by miyoshi, braised A5 Wagyu brisket that we found tough and dry, and the king crab dish, where the Amela tomato was mushy and the champagne vinaigrette nearly flavourless. However, the dishes we did enjoy, coupled with the attentive service, make this restaurant one we recommend seeking out in Causeway Bay for affordable fine-dining.
GYU+bar by miyoshi, Shop 401–404, 4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2116 0593, WhatsApp 5596 3580, book here
| Order this: Hokkaido Shiraoi, Wagyu hire, lobster tail, pistachio Basque-style cheesecake, hojicha éclair Menu: GYU+bar by miyoshi menus Price for two: HKD1,400–1,600 | Atmosphere: wood, black, and gold dominate in the zen main dining area, whilst the sleek bar room surrounds an impressive wine cellar Perfect for: Wagyu enthusiasts |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
