Brave New Frontiers at Gaddi’s with Chef Albin Gobil

Brave New Frontiers at Gaddi’s with Chef Albin Gobil

The youthful new chef injects vibrant energy into a classic institution

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Celia Hu  Celia Hu  on 4 Jul '19


Ask anyone familiar with the Hong Kong dining scene about classic French cuisine, and Gaddi’s at The Peninsula will most certainly be mentioned. The venerable restaurant has been the venue for special celebrations, anniversaries and plenty of engagement proposals for well over half a century and is one of Hong Kong’s premier French haute-cuisine restaurants.

Although a classic institution, Gaddi’s newly appointed chef de cuisine, Albin Gobil, is full of youthful enthusiasm. The 29-year-old French chef has been professionally cooking since the tender age of 14. Before he took the helm at Gaddi’s this spring from Executive Chef Xavier Boyer, Chef Gobil spent a decade in London at two-Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and one-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.

The young French chef describes his culinary style as “modern classic” and uses simple yet refined techniques to bring out the best in each ingredient without overembellishment.


Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong

Our tasting began with an aromatic bouquet of freshly baked bread. The flaky bacon rolls stole our heart.


Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong

The beef and oyster tartare ($580), topped with Kristal caviar, shiso, crispy potato strands and quail egg, was a delicious contrast between crunchy and velvety textures.


Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong

The European turbot ($TBC), served with Ibérico chorizo foam, caponata and piquillo pepper, although delicate in texture, was full of vibrant flavours.


Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong

This is the first time we’ve had a Wellington made with Miéral pigeon ($TBC), and we actually preferred the succulent, tender bird to the classic beef version. Cooked medium rare with a coin of foie gras in the centre, the robust flavour of the pigeon was further accentuated with fresh strawberries and a nutty miso sauce.


Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong

A beautiful lemon sugar sphere with meringue crisp and yoghurt sorbet ($190) made for a refreshing ending to a delicious meal.


Verdict

These dishes at Gaddi’s encompass Chef Gobil’s ethos of “modern classic”. While still honouring the classic fine-dining structure, new twists such as the updated pigeon Wellington and the use of global ingredients like miso are great additions to Gaddi’s renowned repertoire.

1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong ,Salisbury Road, TST, 2696 6763, book online


This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.


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Celia Hu

Celia Hu

Editor-at-Large, Jetsetter Food Nomad

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