A few months ago, a number of modern Chinese restaurants (Old Bailey, Madame Fù, Madame Ching) opened, all at around the same time. I meant to try them all but then left for a long holiday and didn’t end up trying any. But I’ve finally gone to Madame Ching and have been kicking myself that I hadn’t tried it sooner. Because, honestly? It’s really good.
There are few Pirata Group restaurants that I don’t love, but Madame Ching – named after the world’s first female pirate – is definitely one I can see myself coming back to often for a date or dinner with friends. The space, the same spot as the group’s BALLS pop-up last year, isn’t huge, so groups are best limited to four or perhaps six.
Our group tried a number of new seasonal dishes from the autumn menu as well as some seriously delicious sharing plates.
We started with the uni with Brussels sprouts and crème fraiche ($120). Delicious! The sweetness of the sea urchin went very well with the slightly bitter sprout leaves, and there was a generous amount of the uni for the price.
The amadai with aubergine and black beans ($160) was well cooked and had awesome crisp, flaky skin.
Often I force myself to eat salad for lunch so that I can indulge when going out for dinner, but the Kuruma prawn salad ($150) had a flavourful sour dashi broth and very fresh ingredients. I’d reorder this whether or not I’d already had salad for lunch.
While the starters were good, I found the meaty mains even better.
The suckling pig ($210) was perfectly tender, had extraordinarily crisp skin and sat atop an addictive celeriac purée.
The hamachi collar ($160) had a lovely, tangy orange-and-fennel sauce.
And the roast duck ($180 for ½) was drop-my-fork delicious and incredibly juicy.
There was nothing bad about the sides and carbs – roast cauliflower ($85), long beans ($85), dan dan noodles ($95) and mushroom egg fried rice ($85) – but none of them wowed me the way the starters and sharing dishes did. However, they did give me a chance to try out the chilli oil, which was on point.
Chef Son Pham is doing wonderful things at Madame Ching. Overall, the dishes are tasty, inventive and well priced. I’m already looking forward to my next trip.
5 Star Street, Wanchai, 2577 7227, book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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