On the back of their success with steak and burger brand Flat Iron, the Hidden Gem Restaurants team have managed to woo chef Angshuman Adhikari from London, where he headed Michelin-recommended Brigadiers, to front their own Indian concept in Hong Kong, a contemporary British-Indian chophouse.
Punjab Warriors has taken over the very sizeable space on Central’s Lyndhurst Terrace that housed TokyoLima for nearly a decade. There’s a bar area at front where gin & tonics (from HKD78) served in grand glass goblets star, impressively featuring over 30 gin labels. The restaurant’s kick-ass happy hour, on board from 12PM to 7:30PM every day, comes with house pours and beers at a 50% discount.
The tandoori dishes lead the charge on the food front, most prominently with the signature Aussie lamb chops (HKD278). Four hunks of agreeably fatty, lightly gamy chops arrive tender and well charred. We detected a dairy element in the marinade that imparts a cheese-like richness to the flavour of the meat. The portion of spinach raita on the side should be doubled to bring even more earthy, cooling balance to the plate.
On the plant-based side of the tandoor, the tandoori cauliflower & broccoli “mac & cheese” (HKD98) is a comforting fusion plate, even if there isn’t a “mac” in sight in the dish. Most good home cooks know that roasting brings out the best of cruciferous veg like cauliflower and broccoli, and the tandoor serves to elevate this savoury smokiness even further. The cheese sauce, made with a mixture of mild and mature Cheddar, is delightfully sharp, with the ginger strips and chilli oil adding different levels and versions of heat.
Chef Angshuman’s onion bhaji (HKD58) is a pleasant enough Indian starter, getting bonus points from us for its extra-crunchy exterior, though we preferred the more unique lamb vindaloo samosas (HKD88) for a change of pace. Spicier than anticipated, but not as fiery as a true Goan vindaloo, the filling of these thin, crispy samosas offers the curry’s distinct acidic tang.
From the “Ruby Murray” (Cockney rhyming slang for “curry”) section of the menu, the top choice has got to be the chicken tikka butter masala (HKD198), perhaps the most iconic British-Indian dish popularised at curry houses throughout the UK. The chicken, served as a whole chicken leg, was on the dry side, but this was easily overlooked once the meat was slathered in the creamy, well-spiced gravy redolent of cardamom and cinnamon.
We mopped up the last of the curry with the kulcha, cheese, & chilli stuffed naan (HKD58), pillows of carby delightfulness.
Peak indulgence is the name of the game with the Wagyu beef shin & bone marrow dum biryani (HKD198). The biryani, sealed with dough, is unveiled tableside, releasing the rice’s enticing aromas into the atmosphere. It’s made even more decadent once the server incorporates the bone marrow’s juices and scraped-out bits into the fragrant and flavourful mix of beef and basmati rice.
Punjab Warriors’ house-made condiments deserve a special mention, in particular the smoky tandoori eggplant raita (HKD28), which goes well with everything from poppadoms to rice.
After such a feast, we were too full to even attempt a bite of the sticky wicket toffee pudding (HKD68), but we’ll be back for this desert-island dessert!
Our verdict of Punjab Warriors
Moving from steakhouse to chophouse, Hidden Gem have continued their focus on meaty excellence at Punjab Warriors, this time with an Indian slant. The Central restaurant is a stellar addition to the restaurant group’s growing portfolio, particularly with such an esteemed Indian chef at the helm. Like all Hidden Gem eateries, Punjab Warriors nails quality and affordability all at once.
Punjab Warriors, G/F, Car Po Commercial Building, 18–20 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 9525 7003, book here
| Order this: lamb vindaloo samosas, lamb chops, chicken tikka butter masala, Wagyu beef shin & bone marrow biryani, kulcha, cheese & chilli naan Menu: Punjab Warriors menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: the Indian-fied version of the former TokyoLima space: dark and modern in design, with pops of colour and greenery throughout the large bar and dining areas Perfect for: meaty Indian fare |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
