Epicurean Group have placed themselves at the forefront of Spanish cuisine in Hong Kong, having previously opened popular Spanish spots BÀRBAR in Wan Chai and Sheung Wan’s Pica Pica.
The F&B group have now spread the Spanish love to Causeway Bay with the debut of Aire at Lee Garden One, a restaurant with two Basque grills taking pride of place in the open kitchen.
Though housed within a chichi shopping mall, Aire’s design sets itself apart from the typical mall eatery, stylish and secluded, landing one floor below newly relocated Roganic and across the road from Leela. The opening of Aire solidifies this pocket of Causeway Bay as one of culinary prestige.
Aire’s gorgeous wraparound terrace, set to open just in time for summer, is a big draw of the restaurant, where we can envision many a future sangria-fuelled brunch or paella party taking place.
The chefs behind Aire’s menu are Edgard Sanuy Barahona, who heads up Epicurean Group’s Spanish division, and Catalan-born Pere Moreno Germès, returning to Hong Kong after a 10-year absence.
It would be difficult to find a more passionate chef than Edgard, a key to the success of Epicurean’s Spanish eateries. At Aire, diners can order the types of cold cuts, tapas, and rice dishes that are beloved by BÀRBAR and Pica Pica regulars, but chef Edgard has also added another layer to the menu with a section dedicated to dishes kissed by the Basque parrilla.
A flurry of snacks and tapas kicked off our Spanish feast. A sealed white paper bag containing Cantabrian “00” brown anchovy (HKD57/pc) was the first to appear, smoked in mere seconds at the table. Splayed atop grilled brioche along with butter and a paper-thin, melting slice of Ibérico pork jowl, this is one of the best anchovy bites we’ve ever tasted, luxurious in texture and clean and delicate in flavour.
Served cold, the eggplant “escalibada” (HKD67) is a recommended vegetarian tapas. In this traditional Catalan preparation, aubergine is roasted and then peeled, with its pulpy flesh brightened by plenty of sherry vinegar and olive oil. Aire’s interpretation adds toasted almond slivers and zippy romesco sauce to the tangy, smoky mix.
Instead of paella, take a chance with the creamy ceps rice (HKD263), akin to risotto. The chicken-stock undertone is potent, hanging on the palate, whilst the earthiness of the porcini mushroom is a fine match for the iron-rich flavour of the foie gras, punctuated by pops of macadamia bits, still crunchy. Nutty, smoky Idiazábal, a Basque sheep’s milk cheese, stands in for Parmesan.
The Basque grill is what we’ve been waiting for at Aire! In this section, the Spanish whole sea bass (HKD560) is a must-order. This Basque Country staple is the epitome of honest, humble cooking, sensational in flavour without the need for any bells and whistles.
The secret to this fish dish is the Donostiarra sauce drenching the fresh sea bass from the Canary Islands, a medley of loads of garlic, olive oil, paprika, and sherry vinegar; it’s the vinegar’s mellow acidity that kept us coming back for more and more spoonfuls of the sauce.
If you’re craving grilled meat, the dry-aged Galician sirloin (HKD270/150g), served rare, is a more off-piste option than the ubiquitous Wagyu cuts to which Hong Kong diners have become accustomed.
Rubia Gallega is a breed of dairy cattle native to Galicia that’s well loved in Spain for its characteristic chewy bite and strong natural flavour. No, it doesn’t cut like butter, but its rich flavour makes up for the lack of tenderness. The steak is accompanied by a bowl of vinegary confit piquillo peppers swimming in olive oil that provide the perfect sharp tang to the sirloin’s in-your-face meatiness.
The milk-fed lamb shoulder from Castilla-La Mancha (HKD680) is perhaps the star of Aire’s parrilla, a contrast to the Galician sirloin in its extreme tenderness. The flavour of the lamb is gentle and not at all gamy, offering a lingering charred taste. The lamb shoulder sits atop a bed of caramelised onion and potato that’s once again enhanced with vinegar. This is the best of Spanish comfort food.
Our verdict of Aire
Aire excels in Spanish abundance, showcasing the trademark salty, hearty, smoky flavours of the European cuisine to Hong Kong diners. Unlike its tapas bar counterparts, it sits firmly in the restaurant space with a diverse menu starring grilled sharing plates that are simple and approachable yet flavourful to the max. Another Spanish win for chef Edgard and his team!
Aire, Shop 301B–302, 3/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2866 3286, WhatsApp 6694 4137, book here
| Order this: salted cod fritter, Cantabrian brown anchovy, eggplant “escalibada,” Galician octopus, dry-aged sirloin, milk-fed lamb shoulder, ceps rice Menu: Aire à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,200–1,400 | Atmosphere: stylish and spacious, with service that is gracious yet non-intrusive, Aire stands apart from other mall restaurants Perfect for: laid-back gatherings with your closest amigos and soon-to-launch brunches and flamenco nights on the terrace |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
