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With pristine Lalique glasses clinking over one of the most memorable dinners I’ve had this year, Perrier-Jouët marks the start of spring with a statement tasting menu. The sophisticated Art of Revealing Nature six-course menu ($2,280/person; +$880 for Perrier-Jouët champagne pairings) has been released at beloved three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.
The Bacchantes vase by René Lalique (1927) features young priestesses of Bacchus. The vase celebrates the female form, represents unparallelled freedom and demonstrates meticulous craftsmanship. Also, is it huge or is that bottle really small?
Under Chef Adriano Cattaneo, each innovative dish keeps diners on their toes, and being surrounded by some of Lalique’s most notable crystal works helps guests to understand the connection between art and nature.
Easing in, we started with an amuse-bouche of savoury panna cotta. Here, mellow black garlic enhanced the natural sweetness of the salmon roe. Blanc de Blancs was the first glass served, giving each bite a clean, mineral-like ending.
L’oeuf de poule “mimosa”: an egg filled with king crab and caviar (I’m still wondering how they did it!) topped with sea-urchin cream. We continued with the Blanc de Blancs pairing, with the champagne’s crispness balancing the sweet crab and rich uni.
L’oursin: turbot in a fennel emulsion atop savoury sea-urchin cream, akin to Japanese chawanmushi. Chilli powder and chives are added to provide both earthy flavours and a dynamic kick to the subtle dish, which is paired with smooth Belle Epoque 2012.
La langoustine: scampi ravioli topped with foie gras sauce and finely shaved black truffle from France. This dish contains strong flavours, so eating the cabbage at the end helps to refresh the palate. Paired with Belle Epoque 2013, the bubbly’s notes of grapefruit, ginger and lime add some freshness to the robust seafood dish.
Black cod: continuing with the Belle Epoque 2013 pairing, a mala black pepper sauce is added to the fish, and the dish is topped with a dreamy coconut emulsion. The miso-marinated fish has a buttery, coconutty aroma, with the different flavours coming in layers.
La caille: a signature of Joël Robuchon, seared quail with foie gras is served with the creamiest, most indulgent mashed potato and is paired with Blason Rosé, served in a Lalique glass. The full-bodied rosé complements the dish without overpowering the hearty meat and tarragon. Blason has notes of berries, pink grapefruit and pomegranate, which lessen the heaviness of the quail and potato.
Champagne: if you love Japanese strawberries, this dessert is for you – a signature with a twist! Champagne-infused mousse is filled with variegated shades of pink from the strawberry compote and rosé champagne emulsion and is layered with raspberry-strawberry sorbet. This dessert is paired with Belle Epoque Rosé 2012 (one of my favourites), which is well balanced and doesn’t distract from the dish.
Petits fours: we were served citrusy bites of lemon madeleines and orange-infused chocolate clusters.
This menu led by Perrier-Jouët in collaboration with Joël Robuchon and Lalique does not disappoint. The dishes are complex yet delicate in flavour and pair well with the champagnes. I love how the menu incorporates local ingredients, which work harmoniously with some of our all-time-favourite luxury items. The Lalique artwork adds a special touch to this very decadent dining experience.
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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