In its former incarnation at the InterContinental back in the 80s, The Steak House was the first steakhouse in the city to boast a charcoal grill, and it remained a mainstay on the dining scene up until the hotel closed for rebranding a few years ago. It now stands out as one of the F&B stars of newly opened Regent Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s revamped interiors by Melbourne-based BAR Studio are a seductive mix of masculine and feminine elements – think rich hues of burgundy and charcoal and warm leather, suede, and wood finishes juxtaposed with small details like the laced corset effect on the backs of the dining chairs. The stunning harbour views remain, now enhanced by vertical mirrored panels that move depending on the time of day. The open kitchen is where the grilling magic happens, and opposite sits the wine cellar, dry-ageing fridge, and beloved salad bar. There are also two private rooms, with one even having its very own fireplace and a bar area where a smaller version of the salad bar can be set up.

The kitchen is overseen by Moroccan chef Amine Errkhis. Before joining The Steak House, Chef Errkhis worked for Dining Concepts restaurant group here in Hong Kong, where amongst his many culinary roles was the head chef at popular Italian steakhouse Bistecca. He was also formerly the head chef at the American Club.

The salad bar (HK$498/person or HK$298 when ordering a main course from the à-la-carte menu) – laden with fresh veg, salads, cured seafood and top-notch European charcuterie and cheeses – is a highlight of a meal at The Steak House. We would actually make a booking solely to indulge in this salad bar – it’s that good.

The starter options are many and varied. The star for us is the beef tenderloin tartare (HK$280/4oz; HK$520/8oz) topped with egg yolk for mixing in. The flavour is perfectly sharp and acidic (generous on the capers), with a creamy consistency that retains a bit of texture.

Whenever we see bone marrow (HK$250) on the menu, it’s a must-order. This indulgent comfort-food fave comes with a twist, here jazzed up with sea urchin, capers, and yuzu kosho.

To steer away from an all-meat meal, the grilled octopus (HK$300) is an excellent starter choice. The tender, smoky octopus has an East-meets-West profile, accented with the tangy flavours of olive, tomato chutney, and pickled mustard seed. We love the homemade ultra-thin potato chips crowning the dish.

At The Steak House, the meat is aged in-house, and responsible sourcing and provenance are key; the eatery partners with boutique farmers and breeders from around the world to select only the best cuts. First up, we sampled an A5 Akagi Wagyu sirloin (HK$1,100/8oz) from Toriyama Farm in Japan, established in 1948 in Gunma Prefecture. As is standard for A5 Wagyu, there’s incredible marbling in this cut, but it’s balanced by lean meat, resulting in an extremely umami flavour.

All steaks are served with a selection of salts and mustards, presented tableside. Our picks go to the yuzu kosho salt, whose zesty pungency cuts through the meaty intensity, as well as the house-made fermented Guinness mustard, which packs a real punch. A choice of sauce is also complementary, and these range from classic BBQ and Béarnaise to Miyazaki green peppercorn and Périgord black truffle. However, we prefer our meat au naturel to really the flavour shine.

It wouldn’t be a steakhouse without a wide variety of side dishes (HK$98 each). You can go healthy (like broccolini with garlic chips and plump grilled asparagus spears) or naughty (such as lobster macaroni and potatoes au gratin) – or a combination of both, which we favour.

Next up was this USDA Super Prime chateaubriand (HK$1,650/20oz), a huge hunk of 160-day grain-fed Black Angus beef. This cut has a very strong meaty flavour and a dense yet velvety texture, with a pleasing smoky char coming through.

Finally, we tried the Full-blood Wagyu striploin (HK$1,300/12oz) from Mayura Farm in Australia, the focal point of Wagyu breeding outside Japan. This baby is intensely buttery and succulent; it’s delicious for sure, but we could only handle a few bites just because it’s so darn rich.

Part of the dining experience here includes selecting your own knife from the eatery’s collection of sleek Nesmuk JANUS steak knives – handmade in Germany – known for their black blades coated with carbon and ergonomic wooden handles.

It’s thoughtful touches like these bespoke knives that make a meal at The Steak House even more memorable. In the dimly lit space, the menus are backlit for ease of reading. After dinner, take your pick of tipple from the roving digestif trolley.

The Steak House has always been well known for its oversized sharing desserts. We tried the 70% Smoky Chocolaterie de l’Opéra (HK$450), a decadent chocolate fondant that’s sprinkled generously with fat flakes of sea salt, providing a great contrast to the potent chocolate flavour.

Verdict

A longstanding favourite of steak connoisseurs, revamped The Steak House is better than ever before. The price tags have definitely been elevated, but the portions are American-sized, so this means everything is meant for sharing. For us, the salad bar alone is worth the dining experience here. It’s already difficult to snag a table, so be sure to book as soon as reservations open – two months ahead of your preferred booking date.

 

Where: G/F, Regent Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, TST

For reservations: phone 2313 2313 or book online

This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.

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