A Lux’s new Mediterranean tasting menu is a feast for the eyes and taste buds
With a prime view of the atmospheric gas lamps on the Duddell Street Steps in Central, French-Italian fine diner A Lux is always well remembered by patrons for its elegant ambience and quality food. This time, we came to sample the new seasonal five-course “Mediterranean Classico” tasting menu (from HK$828/person) designed by Executive Chef Kwan Wai-chung, which proves to be a refreshing experience in the backdrop of an exceedingly hot summer.
Following the amuse-bouche of Alaskan crab with avocado cream on squid-ink cracker (not pictured), we enjoyed two starters. Steak Tartare, Italian Egg, Avocado stands out with its brilliant colours – a jumbo-size egg yolk of deep orange hue on a bed of bright red beef mince from Boucheries Nivernaises (a family of craftsmen-butchers who supply the French President). The rich and raw natural flavour of the lightly marinated premium beef blended with the creamy, smooth texture of the egg is a sublime experience not to be missed. The avocado cream and yuzu bubbles that come with the dish add to the wonderful flavours of this memorable starter.
The blue lobster carpaccio (+HK$128; not pictured) is a summery garden of green leaves and colourful flowers atop a generous portion of fresh blue lobster carpaccio, finished with a sprinkle of magic dust in the form of Kaviari Kristal caviar. The chef gives just the right dose of light seasoning to bring out the natural savoury-sweet taste of the seafood. These two dishes respectively bring out the best flavours of the land and sea.
The soups on the tasting menu – Onion Soup, Gruyère Toast and Lobster Bisque, Tortellini (+HK$68) – are lighter than the classic versions.
Next comes one of the the menu highlights – Carabineros prawn spaghetti (+HK$108). The rich red sauce is cooked with the prawn heads, and this unparalleled flavour unique to deep-sea prawns is all soaked up by the chef’s chewy homemade pasta. We loved the punchy flavours of this dish, even though we found the texture of the prawn softer than desired.
The main course of Sea Bass, Lobster Ragout, Pesto is a seafood double act from Italy and Boston, USA. The lobster ragout with sun-dried tomato and chorizo is very juicy, with a tangy kick. Its zested-up flavour goes well with the crisp-skinned fish fillet.
Another main choice is the grilled Australian M8 Wagyu beef (+HK$368) with morel sauce. The leaner Australian Wagyu would appeal to those who would like to cut down on fat whilst still enjoying the tenderness of premium beef.
The coconut panna cotta with mango sauce and stewed pineapple presents a strong closing to the tasting menu. The layers of natural sweetness from the medley of tropical fruits offer a real summer treat for those with a sweet tooth.
Verdict
A Lux’s new tasting menu is a reincarnation of classic dishes from the Med made with fresh, seasonal and high-quality ingredients. Our top picks are the starters, which look dazzling and taste even better; rather than making a difficult ordering decision, we recommend sampling several starters with your dining partner(s).
Although we selected a number of courses with top-up charges, the dishes served on the basic five-course menu, such as the beef tartare and sea bass with lobster ragout, are sumptuous. On that score, coupled with the lovely service and ambience, we consider A Lux good value for money. The restaurant also offers a four-course Mediterranean dinner menu at HK$728 (+HK$980 for 4-glass wine pairing) and seven-course Menu du Chef at HK$1,788 (+HK$1,280 for 7-glass wine pairing).
Where: M/F, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell Street, Central
For reservations: phone 2663 9938 or book online
This write-up is based on a complimentary media tasting provided in exchange for an honest review and no monetary compensation. The opinions expressed here represent the author’s.
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