Mexican is a cuisine that’s sorely lacking in Hong Kong’s culinary landscape. OpenRice counts about 45 Mexican restaurants in the city, but many of those are questionable, presenting a mishmash of either North American grub like burgers and fries or Spanish-style tapas.
As an American growing up in the States, Mexican and Tex-Mex food, both Americanised and authentic, form a big part of my most cherished dining memories. There were Taco Tuesdays at home, with my mom working her magic with a box of Old El Paso taco shells, after-school binges at Taco Bell, and (as I got older) special nights out at a “fancy” Mexican restaurant a few towns over, where I was entranced by the tableside guacamole preparation and velvety mole sauce blanketing my braised chicken.
To my chagrin, barring the plates of shop-bought tortilla chips coated with gloopy orange cheese sauce and watery salsa, it’s not as easy in Hong Kong to pick up a taco, quesadilla, or burrito as it would be back home.
Enter Uncle Miguel, a cosy Mexican bar and restaurant in Soho that debuted close to a year ago. Truthfully, arriving for a dinner tasting on a Thursday evening, it felt more like a bar than a restaurant – packed to the gills, raucous, with a margarita or paloma on nearly every table – as tends to be the case with the trendiest spots on Peel Street.
We eased into the short-but-sweet menu with a light touch from the ceviche (HKD128), which offers a refreshing assortment of sea bass, cucumber, tomato, radish, red onion, and coriander, marinated in a classic lime-based dressing and crowned with slices of ripe avocado – a fabulous fusion of fresh flavours that’s admittedly a bit heavy-handed with the onion.
The ceviche is served with homemade corn tortilla chips for scooping, and they’re legit – freshly fried and salted, with an irresistible crunch that you just can’t get from Doritos.
These tortilla chips are also the bedrock of Uncle Miguel’s nachos (HKD148), served with either chicken (our choice) or beef. The nachos are topped with earthy black beans, jalapeños for some heat, the silkiness of sour cream, punchy guacamole and pico de gallo, and melted cheese. This nacho mountain is Mexican comfort food at its finest; it’s a get-your-hands-dirty dish to be relished.
The tacos served up here are as authentic as it gets in Hong Kong, made using homemade corn tortillas (two tortillas per taco, as is traditional in Mexico so that your taco doesn’t collapse upon first bite).
We opted for the classic carne asada (HKD98/2pcs), grilled rib-eye that’s garnished with chopped white onion and coriander and a drizzle of salsa verde (we could have done with more). This taco is seriously juicy and has so much flavour loaded into a couple of bites (a squeeze of lime is essential). We’re keen to try the vegetarian nopales (HKD78/2pcs) – grilled cactus – next time around.
The pork quesadilla (HKD106) is the least memorable of the lot we tried. Don’t get us wrong – it’s still very tasty – but this dish of grilled flour tortilla stuffed with savoury pork and creamy cheese is still rather basic.
Our verdict of Uncle Miguel
Uncle Miguel’s menu would make any Mexican proud. We particularly appreciate the homemade tortilla chips and corn tortillas, which make a world of difference in the restaurant’s delectably authentic nachos and tacos. We would not recommend Uncle Miguel for a date night (the acoustics are poor and the echoes make it difficult to hold a decent conversation), but for groups looking for a vibrant Soho spot with good food and drinks, this tío gets a thumbs up from Foodie.
Uncle Miguel, 49 Peel Street, Soho, Central, 3686 0377, book here
| Order this: ceviche, nachos, al pastor and carne asada tacos, churros Menu: Uncle Miguel menus Price for two: HKD400–600 | Atmosphere: intimate and buzzy, with a striking Frida Kahlo-esque mural that sets the vibe Perfect for: a noisy and rollicking night out with friends, bonding over top-shelf tacos and tequila |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
