Marking one year in business, La Brasserie is a modern French bistro housed inside a space where an HSBC branch once stood. The interior design is lofty and ambitious, with a menu that could be deemed as luxurious as the bills stocked inside the former bank’s safes.
La Brasserie recently celebrated a mention in Hong Kong’s 2024 MICHELIN Guide, so we were eager to see how their food ranks compared to other nearby French restaurants – your Clarences, Louises, Boullions, and Racines.
Right off the bat, we were introduced to the main themes of the night: pure umami overload with touches of sour and salt. This came in the form of the tartare au couteau (HKD158), a righteous and powerful beef starter that ranks very high on my personal tartare chart in Hong Kong. Top 5 finish? Maybe!
Ground beef chuck is mixed elegantly with capers, gherkins, shallots, and egg yolk, with an added infusion of liquid smoke and mustard sauce used to heighten the sour tone of the tartare. Forget the breadsticks as you will want to savour the great taste by itself!
On the note of umami, the soupe à l’oignon (HKD128) and mousse de foie de volaille (HKD168) came up next on the table, kicking us into gear with their strong flavours. Alongside a soft topping of Swiss Gruyère, the onion soup has a portion of red wine added in when sautéeing the onion, hitting us with a tannin flavour.
The chicken-liver parfait is strong and, again, is best to savour on its own or with the sourdough bread provided to ensure that the rich, foie-gras-like oily and nutty flavours are perfectly followed through on your tongue.
As for the main show, we were presented with the poulet crapaudine (HKD828), a glistening butterflied chicken that, displayed under soft lighting, reveals a spectacular sheen and char. A lemon-miso marinade rubbed onto the bird ensures that the salty tone of the thighs and legs are followed with a snappy flavour. The taste thrives with a simplicity that builds with flavour on each bite.
Nothing can be written home, however, about the vegetable ratatouille (HKD90) and crispy layered potatoes (HKD90). The traditional tomato base of the former side dish is strong with peppery and sour tones, yet I wish the aubergine and courgette were cooked longer for a softer bite. The potatoes are slightly too oily for me, and the thyme and rosemary are hard to find on each bite.
Dessert came to our table with the perfect plate of crepes Suzette au gueridon (HKD288). The crepes are fried in a maple-like orange sauce that glistens on the plate, holding a good balance of sour orange juice and sugary syrup. The whipped cream is an added touch of gluttony that I adored.
Our verdict of La Brasserie
With fair prices and service that is formal yet relatable, La Brasserie is a worthy restaurant for a taste of France in Hong Kong. It is less fine-dining-esque than other French venues dotted around Central, but classier than Sheung Wan’s Little France eateries. The chicken is to die for and a must-order, alongside the tartare and crepes.
La Brasserie, Shop D–E, G/F, Lyndhurst Building, 23–29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2506 0990, WhatsApp 5200 3915, book here
| Order this: beef tartare, butterflied chicken, chicken-liver parfait, baked snails Menu: La Brasserie á-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD750–HKD1,000 | Atmosphere: modern, sleek, and formal in design, yet casual in service and menu Perfect for: French bistro-style food that won’t break the bank but promises top taste |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
