Speaking with chef Jim Löfdahl, the proprietor and head chef of Embla, I am attempting to contextualise his “contemporary Nordic fine-dining restaurant” in Hong Kong.
“How does a Nordic restaurant, with a heavy focus on Sweden, fit in Hong Kong?” I ask him. His reply is obvious, at least to him: Nordic cuisine, like French and Italian, merits celebration for its seasonal seafood focus, simplicity, and robust flavours.
With the grip that central European and Mediterranean cuisines have on Hong Kong and Asia, I wanted to see how Embla’s menus answer my question. By the end of the meal, I was convinced our region warrants a Nordic culinary wave, and fast.
Our dinner menu (HKD1,288 pp) began with the gubbröra (+HKD850), a pricey sharing dish that is warranted by the inclusion of imperial Ossetra caviar, the finest of sea-umami bites. The plate is complemented by a blend of salty notes from smoked eel, pickled herring, chive, and boiled egg.
Jim’s Nordic snacks followed, including a fancy salmon blini that oozed a yeasty and eggy aftertaste, with the salmon flavour hanging delicately on the palate. We also enjoyed a delicate A4 Wagyu beef tart featuring the creamiest of caviar I have ever tasted.
The starter courses began with a cured yellowtail dish, built together with green radish, fish roe, and apple. This dish is pleasant on the tongue, with flowery fruitiness and a slight salty bite from the fish taking over at the front. The horseradish juice at the bottom of the bowl helps to provoke more intense fishy tones.
As for the green asparagus, I wished the juniper sauce and pea purée had brought out stronger flavours. However, the morel mushroom lends an aromatic earthiness to the plate, with a vegetable focus welcomed when fish is a main feature of the meal.
Right before the mains were served, the all-important fish course came to our table. I thoroughly enjoyed the poached brill, which is served with a salty and well-textured solaris butter sauce that complements the butter-like, salty flavour of the brill. The texture of the fish itself is also akin to butter, falling apart elegantly with the touch of a knife. Who doesn’t love that?
The meaty main is presented with thoughtful care and an Asian touch. We enjoyed a Peking duck dressed with Swedish influences, alongside the aged duck. Spring carrots and a pumpkin and sea buckthorn sauce pair up with the bird, bringing fresh bites to the plate.
The culinary team’s cooking stands out with the duck dish. The crispy, salty, and nutty shell of the meat fuses with the gamy and fatty flavours of the duck’s body. The dish is coalesced with fruity notes on the plate. If this is what Nordic food is, I want it!
Our dinner (sadly) came to an end after a whirlwind of great international wine, Swedish vodka, and fine Nordic plates. Dessert was a rapeseed-oil sorbet with inclusions of rhubarb, meringue, and vanilla and rose mousse. This final plate is very fitting as a palate cleanser with its introduction of floral notes; it’s a goodbye hug in the form of a dessert.
Our verdict of Embla
I have never before been to a Nordic country, nor enjoyed the region’s burgeoning culinary culture. A visit to Embla opened my eyes to this dining scene that should be exposed to all corners of the world. Nordic food, when fine-dining-ified, is an excellent space to showcase technique and the power of seafood and vegetal flavours.
Sourness and saltiness are shared in every dish at Embla, making it a suitable restaurant for seafood-loving Hong Kongers to enjoy. Chef Jim and restaurant manager Andy will hold your hand tight to expose you to the power of Nordic cuisine.
Embla, 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, 2559 8508, book here
Order this: Embla dinner menu Menu: Embla tasting menus Price for two: about HKD2,600 | Atmosphere: exudes a confidence with its sleek interior, yet provides comfort in the fantastic service Perfect for: intimate dates, anniversaries, and a chance to explore something new |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.