Let’s get this out of the way first. If you’re making a booking at Udatsu Sushi, you need to be prepared to shell out HKD1,580 for the lunch omakase or HKD2,580 for the dinner omakase. Expensive? Without a doubt. Worth it? We’ll let you be the judge (it’s certainly less expensive than a flight to Tokyo and one-night hotel stay would be).
The high price tags are there because of Udatsu Sushi’s pedigree. The newly opened sushi restaurant at the heritage FWD HOUSE 1881 in Tsim Sha Tsui is the first overseas outpost of Hisashi Udatsu’s Michelin-starred eatery in Tokyo, also recently expanding to Los Angeles. Leading the charge in Hong Kong is chef Hiroki Nakamura, an apprentice to chef Hisashi for 13 years.
The 12-seat counter, made of 150-year-old Japanese cedar, is set in a minimalist space adorned with rotating contemporary art pieces by local, Japanese, and international artists. The lilting jazz music in the background sets the tone for the meal ahead.
Whilst the majority of ingredients are flown in daily from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, both chef Hisashi and chef Hiroki are keen to champion local produce from Hong Kong, particularly herbs and vegetables. This is deliciously evident in the seasonal vegetable hand roll, whose ingredients change every two weeks (we were treated to the Jerusalem artichoke version, with a pop of miso at the bottom of the roll to awaken the palate).
No matter where the ingredients originate, the keys to Udatsu Sushi’s success are meticulous sourcing and sustainable initiatives. A large portion of the fish used comes directly from a single trusted fisherman in Fukuoka Prefecture in order to ensure responsible fishing. This same fisherman collects plastic marine debris, which is then melted down and moulded into coasters. The chefs then use all parts of the fish, reserving the bones to use later on to craft broths and sauces.
The omakase menus at the restaurant differ from the Michelin-starred sushi menus around town that most diners are accustomed to, featuring unique preparations and ingredients that pay homage to Hong Kong. For example, there’s a local eel nigiri that knocked our socks off with its soft texture and rich flavour. Other local signatures include the fried fish cake – here made with local grouper and snapper – with an abundance of umami and abalone with dashi soup, showcasing Hong Kong’s prized mollusc.
For dinner, the 19-course menu features six small plates, eight pieces of sushi, one futomaki, one temaki, soup, tamago, and dessert. Highlights for us on the night included the double-smoked fatty tuna (luscious in texture and taste, kicked up with pungent wasabi), hairy crab and mizuna with vinegar crab gelée (the combination of vinegar with shiso is genius), double sea urchin with seaweed tempura nigiri (sweet, creamy-meets-crispy, briny bliss), and double shrimp nigiri (cold sweet shrimp enveloped in warm tiger prawn).
Though 19 courses might seem like overkill, the menu is measured and considered, and we departed feeling supremely satisfied, not stuffed.
To complement the food, chef Hisashi and his team have curated the drinks menu with a focus on both small-batch seasonal sake and the unconventional pairing of tequila. Diners can opt for a sake pairing for HKD500 at lunch and HKD880 at dinner. Also for dinner, the Clase Azul México tequila pairing comes in at HKD1,180 and features two special highballs: Clase Azul Plata highball with sudachi and Clase Azul Reposado highball with yuzu.
Our verdict of Udatsu Sushi
Udatsu Sushi joins the ever-growing list of Michelin-starred sushi imports from Tokyo, yet it stands apart from the rest. The restaurant is about so much more than diners tucking into premium raw fish; the chefs have developed a space where impeccable sushi intermingles with art, sustainability, and a sense of community.
Udatsu Sushi, G/F, Stable Block, FWD HOUSE 1881, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, WhatsApp 5729 4188, book here
| Order this: the lunch and dinner omakases are the only options at Udatsu Sushi Menu: Udatsu Sushi menu Price for two: from around HKD3,200 | Atmosphere: dimly lit, intimate, and serene Perfect for: sushi connoisseurs slash eco-warriors with cash to splash |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
