There’s a je ne sais quoi about French bistro dining that never fails to please us, and Hong Kongers can’t seem to get enough of hearty and soothing bistro fare – usually accompanied by plenty of good wine.
The newest French bistro to hit our fair shores is À Poêle (pronounced “ah pawl”), located in the up-and-coming Taikoo Shing neighbourhood of Quarry Bay, a restaurant that takes its name from the French words for “stove” and “frying pan.”
The open-fronted bistro, a member of the Deadly Rabbits Concepts portfolio of Ask for Alonzo fame, is convivial and cosy, oozing Gallic charm with its marble tabletops, navy-and-white banquette seating, and vintage-style woven chairs.
An affordable option for dinner is À Poêle’s three-course set dinner menu (HKD298), which we ventured over to Taikoo Shing to sample. All the dishes on the set menu are also available à la carte.
To start, the French onion soup (HKD98) is a beauty, served traditionally in a lion-head soup bowl. This classic French soup is hearty from the beef stock, sweet from the caramelised onion, and comforting from the oversized crouton topped with loads of melted Gruyère cheese.
Another bistro staple, the beef tartare (HKD168) is a solid specimen. We enjoyed the richness of the egg yolk topping and the tartare’s variety of savoury, tangy, and spicy notes. À Poêle also offers a unique seared beef tartare (HKD288) that we’ll be back to try.
The first main to land on the table was the roast chicken (HKD228/HKD398). The tender chook is coated in a spice mix that’s heavy on the paprika and salt, and we’d advise the kitchen to cut down on the seasoning. On the side, the mashed potato is buttery and well seasoned, and the crisp-cooked string beans are as moreish as fries. There’s also an accompanying sherry jus, which we feel isn’t needed owing to the strong chicken flavour.
Then our bistro favourite arrived: the steak frites (HKD368). The steak cut in use at À Poêle is a flavourful rib-eye, which was cooked just past the point of our requested medium rare. The peppercorn sauce on the side delivers a smoky and slightly spicy bite. And the frites? They might look pale in appearance, but their flavour and texture are spot on – perfectly crunchy and salty.
On the set menu, there are only two choices for dessert, crème brûlée (HKD88) and ice cream (HKD38). We went for the crème brûlée, and it was the sole disappointment of our tasting. The custard base was more watery than creamy, and the top layer of caramelised sugar was flimsy, missing that satisfying signature crunch. We’re hoping this was just a one-off.
Our verdict of À Poêle French Bistro
Ooh la la! À Poêle French Bistro is a très charmant addition to Taikoo Shing. In a city lacking quality affordable restaurants – straddling the line between cheap and cheerful and fine-dining – this bistro stands out.
À Poêle French Bistro, Shop G514, G/F, Hing On Mansion, 5 Tai Yue Avenue, Taikoo Shing, 2446 1598, book here
| Order this: French onion soup, escargots, beef tartare, seafood platter, beef bourguignon, steak frites, chocolate mousse Menu: À Poêle French Bistro à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: relaxed and buzzy, offering a Parisian holiday feel Perfect for: boozy long lunches and date nights |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
