Like any quality five-star-hotel, Rosewood Hong Kong has finally welcomed a French restaurant within its quarters, having swapped out The Dining Room for Marmo Bistro in late 2024. What exists today is a proud French bistro that brings celebrated classics from France into a new light – it is light on the palate but strong on flavour.

The existing Italian culinary team who led the former Italian restaurant are now cooking French food. A border away in Europe but operating in the same kitchen, the food quality remains at an expected high at the new concept.

In Tsim Sha Tsui, Marmo’s competitors exist in Michelin-starred Gaddi’s and ÉPURE. Marmo tends to the more relaxed side of French dining with a tranquil vibe, uplifted by Rosewood’s polished service style.

The menu comes with all the classics. The thon à la “niçoise” (HKD268) kicked off our dinner escapade with a vibrant savoury kick, followed by rich salty notes. Mixed in with tuna akami crudo is a melange of green bean, olive, egg, and anchovy, tossed in a lemony dressing that complements the salad. 

I was particularly fond of the baby gem leaves that soak up the dressing and bring a crunch to the salad. Order this for a healthy start.

Marmo Bistro Rosewood Hong Kong restaurant review baby gem salad nicoisse
Thon à la “niçoise” (HKD268)

Up next was the much-touted gratinée à l’oignon (HKD168), gratinated onion soup topped with two slices of baguette and melted Gruyère and Comté cheeses. The soup itself is stewed for a long period of time to mature into a bony onion broth that, whilst light in texture, hangs on the tongue. 

Make sure to dig in as soon as the temperature of the soup cools down to ensure the baguette doesn’t get too soggy and the cheese remains chewy for a great textural sip each time.

Marmo Bistro Rosewood Hong Kong restaurant review French onion soup
Gratinée à l’oignon (HKD168)

A dish that surprised me beyond my familiarity with French cuisine in Hong Kong came in the pre-meaty mains stage of my weeknight dinner at Marmo. The forest-green-coloured cuisse de grenouille (HKD258) parsley risotto was dished out on the table, paired up with five organic frog legs, fried lightly in butter and finished with garlic cream.

Some might have an aversion to the colour and inclusion of frog legs – they are “foreign” – but not me. The parsley infused into the rice brings a subtle sharp touch that immediately clashes with the pungent garlic cream. This dish is all about strong flavour combinations. Pair that up with the frog legs and you have a nice protein touch to strengthen the offering.

Marmo Bistro Rosewood Hong Kong restaurant review dover sole fish
Sole meunière (HKD888)

As expected at a French restaurant in Hong Kong, sole meunière (HKD888), or French-style Dover sole, has landed on the menu, crafted expertly at Marmo. The tableside presentation involves a thick parsley butter poured onto the middle of the fish for an extra dash of flash. 

I only could grab three bites onto my plate – any table in Hong Kong with Dover sole is an enviable one – but the fish was cooked well: crisp, full-bodied, salted lightly, and perfect with the aromatic dipping sauce drenched on the plate. There is a reason this dish garners a high price tag. 

Marmo Bistro Rosewood Hong Kong restaurant review chicken stew
Fricassée de poulet (HKD388)

After dining at Marmo just last week, the fricassée de poulet (HKD388), or spring yellow chicken stew, is still highly memorable. I am a fan of robust and heavy flavours. Each bite of the creamy, mushroom-packed, cheesy stew sauce tickled my taste buds and satiated my hunger. The chicken is moist and bouncy on the palate. If there is one main dish to order at Marmo, it is this. 

Our verdict of Marmo Bistro

I commend the Italian chef team for switching gears and performing a French spectacle in the kitchen. Marmo Bistro is the answer to casual French dining on the Kowloon Peninsula. Its hotel locale demands higher prices, but it also commands higher quality. Order à la carte for the best results.

Marmo Bistro, G/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3891 8732, book here

Order this: onion soup, tuna akami crudo salad, parsley risotto with frog leg, spring yellow chicken stew
Menu: Marmo Bistro à-la-carte menu
Price for two: HKD1,000–1,200
Atmosphere: non-assuming, liberated, and comfortable for lengthy dinners with wine
Perfect for: casual French dining in groups or celebrating a special occasion

This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.

Rubin Verebes is the Managing Editor of Foodie, the guiding force behind the magazine's delectable stories. With a knack for cooking up mouthwatering profiles, crafting immersive restaurant reviews, and dishing out tasty features, Rubin tells the great stories of Hong Kong's dining scene.

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