With bated breath, I waited for news that Roganic would be invited back to the MICHELIN Guide ceremony in mid-March. It was much to my pleasure when they retained their star, having undergone their greatest transformation since they first landed in Hong Kong in 2019.
I routinely see Roganic as a fitting restaurant for those dipping their feet into fine-dining or looking to dine in a grand way but at an affordable price. With the lunch menu priced at HKD520 and dinner menu at HKD1,280, the value is concrete.
The new version of Roganic deviates significantly from the old. Yes, it is located inside a mall, and yes, the menu isn’t served in classic form, rather the dishes are made to share. But these factors work to their advantage.
Elegant wood panelling dresses the interior, whisking customers away to the forest. The shared menu style is unique to Hong Kong, which ultimately sets Roganic apart from the rest.
It took me a minute to grasp the essence of Roganic’s new sharing concept. Some might feel upset that they are not served separate plates of food without being asked to serve each other, but there is more fun to be had when dishing out the individually sized portions from each main course; it makes fine-dining more fun and less serious.
From the four-strong snacks section of the dinner menu, the cured mackerel from Hainan and beetroot salad perform the strongest, followed by the artichoke skin, truffle, and Tunworth.
The salty fish cut, paired with a sweet and tangy beetroot mould, sets the tone for the flavours expected throughout the menu: bold, funky, floral, and plucked straight from Mother Earth.
My favourite of the new dinner menu is the aged grouper. Dusted in five flavours, the fish is dressed on the plate with a fried White Dragon sweetcorn creation, roasted bone jus, and seaweed butter for the ultimate buttery and umami sensations.
This dish is all about clashing flavours and textures. The lemony sweetcorn is crunchy on the palate, fusing nicely with the firm grouper, which holds its shape nicely. Mix the butter and jus together for a salty kick at the end.
As for the raw bluefin tuna, wrapped and served with kohlrabi, kombu, apple, and apple-marigold juices, this is arguably one of Roganic’s best creations, symbolic of the restaurant’s new path and identity.
It is pickled and creamy, which hits my sour tooth. The tuna is firm like the grouper but breaks down with the acidity of the kombu and apple.
As for the final main course I fell in love with – already a fan favourite within a few weeks of reopening in February – the dry-aged Guangdong duck has taken everyone’s hearts.
The plump bird is sliced and portioned exactly to fit any sized dining table, served alongside 100-flower honey and a sticky pickled walnut sauce.
Cooked with an ample sodium level, the fruitiness of the sauces pair well to mellow out the gaminess of the duck whilst cosying up to the salty exterior shell, which is dressed in honey. This is a very playful dish that will certainly become a signature.
Additionally, the wine menu is smaller, just like the number of tables on the dining floor, but this also plays as an advantage. I had excellent Greek and Spanish wines in my three-course wine pairing, both amplifying the tastes on the plate whilst acting as side dishes of sorts to drive home the wondrous flavours.
Our verdict of Roganic
Roganic will always remain a favourite of mine. Shunning its former moody space, the new Roganic is fresh, enlightening, mature, and confident – so confident that they have taken a brave step in innovating the shared menu concept, which works so well. Each element and ingredient can be individually savoured on the palate, a difficult thing to achieve at a restaurant when time is favoured over precision. I will be back.
Roganic, Shop 402 & 403, 4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2817 8383, book here
| Order this: aged grouper, dry-aged Guangdong duck, raw bluefin tuna Menu: Roganic tasting menus Price for two: HKD2,560 | Atmosphere: not your typical fine-dining restaurant, instead offering friendly service and a spacious venue Perfect for: unpretentious Michelin-starred dining that won’t break the bank |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
