Medora, opened in November 2024 on Central’s Wellington Street, is a distinct change of pace for acclaimed chef Vicky Cheng, who is most well known for his fine-dining East-meets-West restaurants VEA and WING.
The restaurant space is chic yet inviting, with the friendly staff amplifying its down-to-earth charm. The food menu focuses on elevated Western comfort food, American in particular.
Medora’s beverage menu has been curated by master mixologist Antonio Lai of Quinary fame. Complementing the eatery’s breezy approach, most of the drinks here have a refreshing fruity or floral flavour profile, from the apple and jasmine gin and tonic (HKD110) to the verbena highball (HKD120).
Although Medora’s Caesar salad (HKD148) starter is definitely tasty and offers the requisite cheesy, salty, and umami notes of the classic recipe, it can’t compete with the restaurant’s baby oyster chowder (HKD158) in terms of the comfort factor.
The chowder is served in a hefty sourdough bread bowl reminiscent of Panera (if you know, you know). It’s creamy and rich with a hint of sweetness and bursting with petite yet portly oysters, taking the chowder up a few notches from the standard clam version. The bread bowl is a wonderful vehicle to soak up all the goodness of the broth – we couldn’t stop ourselves from tearing it apart bit by bit.
Medora’s menu showcases a handful of pasta dishes, and we were treated to the pork knuckle orecchiette (HKD198). This type of pasta is chewier around the edges than others owing to its ear-like shape, which suits our love of a bit of bite. The flavour of the light sauce coating the orecchiette is dominated by the cubes of zesty chorizo, punctuated by the less pronounced pork knuckle bits, gelatinous in texture. Next time, we’d like to try the spicy scallop spaghetti (HKD228) for a stronger smack.
The barbecue chicken (HKD438), a sharing dish, is the crowning glory of Medora’s menu. Made with local three-yellow chicken, the bird itself cuts like butter and has a deep, umami flavour, a contrast to the golden, crispy, salty skin. The chicken is garnished with whole dill pickles and pepperoncini, which make for excellent tangy, spicy counterparts. Be warned that the fermented habanero chilli sauce accompaniment is very, very spicy, so just a little dab’ll do ya.
Amazingly, the side of hot honey crispy cauliflower (HKD98) eclipses even the chook. The cauliflower’s shattering crunch is terrific, and the coating of hot honey makes even this bland vegetable an addictive flavour bomb. The cherry on top goes to the bits of double-smoked bacon mixed in with the florets.
We ended our meal with hazelnut crunch and pistachio gelato (HKD88/2 scoops) courtesy of Liz & Tori, chef Vicky’s artisanal gelato shop dedicated to his two daughters, which shares a space with the restaurant. The gelato has a lovely, creamy texture, but the taste of both flavours, particularly the pistachio, is muted and more subtle than we prefer.
Our verdict of Medora
Chef Vicky Cheng elevates and modernises Western comfort-food favourites at Medora, and the dining experience here is relaxed and approachable. Though decidedly less costly than the chef’s fine-dining establishments, Medora is not inexpensive; you’re paying for the Central location, stylish interior design, and Vicky’s pedigree. The wait staff deserve another mention for being extremely attentive and helpful, always checking in with diners and anticipating their needs without going full-on American friendly.
Medora, G/F, 111 Wellington Street, Central, 2711 8088, book here
| Order this: shrimp cocktail, baby oyster chowder, spicy scallop spaghetti, Wagyu burger, BBQ chicken, hot honey cauliflower Menu: Medora à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,000–1,200 | Atmosphere: warm earth tones, soft lighting, and floor-to-ceiling windows bring a laid-back, airy allure Perfect for: ladies who lunch, hen dos, weekend meals out with the fam |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
