It is a story that is so Hong Kong: a new Italian restaurant takes the place of a greasy cha chaan teng that once had a whole neighbourhood hooked on its oily fare. Gone is the signboard of daily specials, here we have Sai Ying Pun’s favourite Italian restaurant back.
The 2.0 version of LucAle is loud and proud, thankfully open to the elements rather than hidden around a corner as before.
My visit to the restaurant on a Wednesday is busy. Almost every table is full, which must fill the owner-chef team with confidence.
I heeded the advice of the menu’s suggestion for a four-piece order of LucAle’s signatures, beginning with the fresh Sicilian tuna (HKD298), a ceviche with dollops of avocado cream and a soup of soy sauce and Amalfi lemon dressing.
My palate is awoken with a dazzling sour-slightly sweet mix of the soy sauce and lemon that injects flavour into the mini tuna cuts. Simple yet punchy.
For the second antipasti I ate at dinner, the tenderloin beef tartare (HKD238) didn’t stand up to the strengths the tuna dish brought.
The tartare dish brings together clashing textures and flavours with a mix of egg cream and horseradish mayonnaise that works, but is hampered by puffed rice, potato waffle slices, and pine nuts mixed in that take away from the soft raw beef mince.
A handful of popcorn is placed atop the three mounds of tartare to supposedly beautify the dish, but it diminishes the flavours necessary to enjoy tartare. The popcorn is not made fresh and leaves an oily flavour in the mouth.
My third dish, my pasta serving of the night, thankfully brought me back to the great standard LucAle operates at. Eight plump guinea fowl ravioli (HKD228) pieces are served bathing in a cheesy, sagey, buttery sauce.
It is a fun pasta dish that represents LucAle’s respect of Italian traditions but want for hearty flavours on the menu. The dainty pasta kernels bring a punch of umami, complemented by a buttery touch that boosts the bird’s flavour and a cheese addition that ties everything together.
My final bite at LucAle’s new space came with the lamb loin (HKD368), a messy meeting (that works) of almond cream, Mediterranean granola (nuts), and a red pepper sauce.
LucAle is not fine-dining, thus, its ‘messy’ plating works to its advantage. What matters is the flavour and this lamb brings it with a colourful mix of robust meat, almond for sweetness, and red pepper for sourness.
Our verdict of LucAle 2.0
Now open to clear public sight with a larger open kitchen, LucAle is evidently transparent with its ambitions: retain its Michelin Guide placing, confidently serve strong Italian plates that rival competitors, and grow an ever stronger customer base.
The tuna and ravioli dishes are two reasons to return for a taste of its 2.0 iteration. With some adjustment, the beef tartare can regain strength with a focus on the meat itself and just the sauces without the convoluted texture clashing.
LucAle, 5-8, G/F, Hang Fai Building, 28-32 Pok Fu Lam Road, Sai Ying Pun, 3611 1842, book here
| Order this: fresh Sicilian tuna, guinea fowl ravioli, lamb loin Menu: à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD600-HKD800 | Atmosphere: loud at times with a full floor, but this is the noise of people enjoying themselves Perfect for: a family trip for Italian food |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
