There is no exact formula or equation to render a restaurant viral – it just… happens. Our consumption of Instagram in the act of (planning to) consume food itself definitely helps to propel trendy restaurants into the public foodie realm.
The latest stop of the Hong Kong dining hype train is Nocino, a “Swiss-Italian culinary escape”, as described in a press release. It’s a grotto-style eatery that soaks up the recipes found in the middle Venn diagram section of Switzerland’s southeastern Italian-speaking region.
Nocino comes to Hong Kong with the expertise of chef Matthew Ziemski, who many might remember from his vibrant cooking at Kinship. Arriving in Hong Kong in 2019, Matthew now travels back to his childhood alongside his Swiss mother and grandmother, cooking their recipes for Instagrammers and diners.
Most days, and especially at the weekend, the lunch and dinner tables are booked up weeks in advance. Reservations are opened monthly, and Nocino is harder to get a table at than the notoriously hard-to-book CHAAT at the Rosewood.
How? Why? What? I found myself at Nocino on a weekday to ask why the restaurant has gained such notoriety within the local Instagram community and how, in only three months time, did it get there.
The set lunch menu (HKD148 pp/HKD168 pp) at Nocino comes with three options for starters, three pasta choices, and dessert. We began with the arancini ticinese (HKD35/pc), a large risotto ball stuffed with balsamic-washed mushrooms and saffron rice.
Dusted in a snowy coating of Parmesan cheese and served on a bed of wilting lettuce, the arancini is a pleasant starter to begin, but it doesn’t “punch” high with its flavours. There are hints of a peppery umami, and each bite brings out the aromatic cheese.
Moving on to the star of the meal, a starter featured in every single influencer reel and post, is the Wagyu beef tartare (HKD145), a shimmering Swiss-style version of Hong Kong’s fave raw meat dish.
Served in small chunks with similarly sized sautéed onion slices, the tartare is sumptuous with each bite of its fleshy and peachy meat. The frothy aioli and basil juice smacked on the bottom of the plate help to cut the fat, which is aided with a salty hug from the onion and crunchy celeriac. This is why you come to Nocino.
The first of two pastas we tried was the duck ragù reginette (HKD170), available on the menu for both lunch and dinner. Simmered in a slightly sweet tomato broth, the duck is gamy and holds a firm, grainy texture that is pleasant on the tongue.
Like every pasta served at Nocino, the wheat shapes are made in-house and served perfectly al dente. This dish is best enjoyed with a dusting of pepper, balancing the meat tones on the plate.
Up next was the pesto gigli (set menu), a vibrant pasta made famous by every Instagram post capturing the shimmer of the sauce hitting against the white light of an iPhone torch. It is a simple dish that pairs a herby pesto sauce with gigli pasta shapes. The parsley and basil mixed into the pesto evoke deep forest aromas, however, salt is recommended to bring out the taste of the sauce.
The house rosemary focaccia (HKD25) brought us to a satisfying fullness after finishing our pasta dishes. Baked fresh daily, the Italian bread holds crunchy salt, anchovy, and rosemary atop a crispy shell, with pillowy insides that promise a sweet, honeyed touch. The contrast is wicked.
Our verdict of Nocino
After my lunch visit, I have discovered why Nocino has become a viral sensation. It is affordable, but not expensive, hearty, but not overly complicated. Don’t expect to be blown away by the simple fare, but you’ll be back again to try everything on the menu.
Nocino, 92 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, 6012 1098, book here
| Order this: house rosemary focaccia, Wagyu beef tartare, duck ragù reginette, pesto gigli Menu: Nocino lunch and à-la-carte menus Price for two: HKD250–350 | Atmosphere: 15 seats in the house promise for a quiet but quick meal Perfect for: affordable bowls of pasta and an Italian meal that won’t hurt your bank account |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
