Tim Ho Wan’s newest location at K11 Art Mall is also the fanciest for the brand, which was founded in Hong Kong in 2009 by chefs Mak Kwai Pui and Leung Fai Keung as a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Mong Kok specialising in high-quality yet affordable dim sum. Awarded a Michelin star from 2010 till 2021, today it stands firmly in the Michelin Bib Gourmand category.
The latest step for the global dim sum giant is the launch of this modern flagship restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui, here offering much more than just delicious dim sum. In fact, over 60 items are listed on the expansive menu, ranging from roast meats, to stir-fries, to seafood dishes, to creative desserts.
At 3,500 square feet, the space itself is comfortable and contemporary yet also honours its Hong Kong foundations, with notable design elements including the jade-green glass light fixtures, artwork by celebrated local calligrapher Wah Gor, and statement wall crafted with mahjong tiles.
We kicked off our tasting with the Hong Kong staple of BBQ pork (HKD188), displaying a nice balance of lean yet tender meat and unctuous fat. The glistening maltose-glazed pork collar is sticky, savoury, and moreish to the max, and we bet you can’t eat just one piece!
In the sweet-and-sour pork with peach and ginger (HKD138), the peach lends a delicate fruitiness compared to the traditional in-your-face pineapple, along with the sharp and warming undertone of ginger. Tim Ho Wan’s version of this all-time-favourite Cantonese recipe is tangier than many of the cloyingly sweet numbers we’ve experienced.
The Tim Ho Wan mixed stir-fry (HKD168) is a nod to a dish that’s popular at dai pai dongs around town. This is a umami-packed stir-fry of dried squid, fish, and shrimp with chive flower and cashew that showcases a characteristic smoky wok hei. We enjoyed the strong flavours, but it might be too potent for those unaccustomed to the pungency of local dried seafood.
A menu highlight is the whole fresh lobster crispy noodles with black bean sauce (HKD298). We liked the contrast of the fried noodle textures, starting off crispy and then softening as the sauce and lobster juices soak through. Speaking of the sauce, we could have done with more of it, as well as more chilli, to balance the flavours.
We couldn’t leave Tim Ho Wan without sampling a few of their legendary dim sum bestsellers. The steamed shrimp dumpling (HKD50/4pcs) is supposedly crafted with 11 handmade folds – classic and delicious. With a mix of a crispy, sweet exterior and fluffy interior filled with sweet-meets-savoury barbecued pork, we think the baked BBQ pork bun (HKD50/3pcs) itself is worthy of a Michelin star; it’s definitely the best we’ve ever tasted, in Hong Kong or elsewhere.
Our verdict of Tim Ho Wan
Tim Ho Wan is one of the most significant F&B success stories for Hong Kong – the brand now boasts well-performing outlets from Australia to the USA – and after 15 years at the top of the dim sum game, they continue to impress. The service is known to be efficient but brusque (it’s the same at this flagship), but we can overlook this when the dishes are as tasty and reasonably priced as they are.
Tim Ho Wan, Shop 119, 1/F, K11 Art Mall, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2489 8918
Order this: BBQ pork, braised pork belly with preserved mustard greens, lobster crispy noodles, sweet-and-sour pork, baked crab shell, plum cake Menu: Tim Ho Wan menu Price for two: HKD400–600 | Atmosphere: modern meets nostalgic, showcasing artistic local design features in a bright and bustling space Perfect for: dim sum aficionados and diners who are keen to explore beyond Tim Ho Wan’s signature yum cha delicacies |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.