We love a restaurant with a bit of history, an eatery that has stuck it out in Hong Kong’s ever-changing and persnickety dining landscape.
Although not a household name like Jimmy’s Kitchen may be, Landau’s was opened in 1976 in Causeway Bay by the same owners, the Landau family. Dubbed an “atmosphere restaurant” by the local press, Landau’s remained a popular European fine-dining spot until its closure around 1990.
Just as Jimmy’s Kitchen was brought back to life in 2023, Epicurean Group have resurrected Landau’s, reopening the smart restaurant on Queen’s Road East in Wan Chai late last year. There are two distinct parts to the venue: the Dining Room and the more casual Bar & Grill area.
The kitchen is now led by veteran chef Jack Carson, a New Orleans native who has made Hong Kong this home for the past 15 years. During that time, he served as executive chef at several of the city’s top F&B groups, including Enoteca Group and Black Sheep Restaurants. Over a decade ago, chef Jack also founded his own restaurant, Restoration, which was a short-lived but cherished foodie haunt for authentic Creole cuisine.
At Landau’s, chef Jack’s modern European à-la-carte menu at the Dining Room is seasonal and succinct, currently featuring seven starters and main courses each, a handful of sides, and just three desserts – quality over quantity wins out here.
To start, the hamachi and fruit (HKD148) stole the show when compared to the pâte campagne (HKD128). We found the pâte to be quite muted in flavour and in great need of the accompanying dollops of wholegrain mustard and mostarda, both bitingly sharp, to amp up the taste.
In contrast, the hamachi crudo wallops the palate with an array of diverse flavours, from the tart apple vinaigrette to the sweet melon and grape segments. The lush, soft mouthfeel of this dish is another plus.
Both mains we sampled – the Landau’s choucroute garni (HKD368) and red roughy roulade (HKD388) – get our seal of approval, but for different reasons. The roughy, plumped up with a delicious jumbo lump crabmeat filling, is bright and colourful. The citrus hollandaise and fennel salad heighten the dish’s fresh flavour profile.
More rustic and winter-forward, the choucroute garnie can’t be missed. Choucroute garnie is a traditional Alsatian dish featuring a base of braised sauerkraut redolent with juniper berry, complemented by sausage and other hearty meats. Landau’s version of this recipe is sensational. The sauerkraut has just the right sour bite, and the duck-leg confit, white sausage, and pork belly are well seasoned and succulent. A final mention to the crispy sage leaves dotting the plate: these are addictive!
The potatoes dauphine (HKD98) are a must-order side at Landau’s. This classic French dish offers creamy mashed potato enveloped by a golden, deep-fried shell. Chef Jack’s rendition of these posh tater tots adds truffle to the mix, upping the indulgence factor.
When the dessert portion of the meal rolls around, we recommend abstaining from the winter nut and fruit tart (HKD128), which we found akin to an overly heavy mince pie. Instead, the pistachio crème brûlée (HKD128) is a delight, placing a spotlight on the “it” nut of the moment. The texture of the crème brûlée is rich and luxurious, and upon first spoonful, its caramelised top shatters just as it should. The pistachio injects this tried-and-true French dessert with contemporary pizzazz.
Our verdict of Landau’s
Chef Jack’s menu at the Dining Room delivers an elegant throwback dining experience that makes us yearn for Hong Kong’s golden age of the 70s and 80s. The dishes are classic yet creative, infused with interesting global elements.
Landau’s, 2/F, Wu Chung House, 213 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, 2808 0882, WhatsApp 6924 5203, book here
| Order this: hamachi and fruit, choucroute garnie, potatoes dauphine, pistachio crème brûlée Menu: Landau’s à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD1,400–1,600 | Atmosphere: classy and comfortable; the lilting jazz background music sets the old-school mood Perfect for: impressing the in-laws, aunties, and uncles |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
