Very few 96-year-olds in Hong Kong go through extensive makeovers and dress to the nines on the daily, with a major exception made towards Jimmy’s Kitchen, one of the newest restaurant reopenings to hit Central earlier this year.
Opened in 1928, Jimmy’s Kitchen was long a fixture of Hong Kong’s esteemed dining scene. It was imported to Wan Chai from Shanghai, later finding a more permanent home in Central, before shuttering in 2020 – another pandemic passing.
Lest we pray for the former dining behemoth as the restaurant makes a valiant return to life, this time housed in a modern shell inside Pedder Building. As executive chef Russell Doctrove states, Jimmy’s Kitchen today is a mix of the old and new.
The old, a Jimmy’s favourite, comes in the form of the pickled Dutch herring fillets (HKD148). This cold starter pairs a sweet, vinegar-tinged pair of Dutch herring with a melange of sour, salty, and peppery tones from the new potato salad. The additions of onion, mustard, and apple make for a good palate cleanser.
Up next on the starter scene is the new bluefin tuna crudo (HKD188), housing a dollop of roasted aubergine underneath and toasted buckwheat on top. The fish, as fresh as you can get from Japan, boasts a strong umami profile. The eggplant also helps to raise the “meaty” factor of the dish.
No review of Jimmy’s Kitchen in 2024 can be complete without discussing the Angus beef mince on toast (HKD168). It is a dish synonymous with fancy classical British restaurants and young student kitchens. Slap a Worcestershire-sauce-dressed serving of super-juicy beef mince on toast and pair it with horseradish creamed potatoes for a great clashing of tang, beef, and salt with acidic horseradish. It’s epic.
Any former diner of Jimmy’s Kitchen would be familiar with the chicken supreme Kiev (HKD238), a luscious bone-in chicken creation held in a soup of garlic-herb butter and creamed potatoes. The chicken is very juicy and pairs super well with the sharp garlic (butter) soup. Swipe up with some of the potatoes on your fork for the perfect bite.
The last of the salty mains is the seared “Prince des Dombes” duck breast (HKD358). The bird is plated with a funky slab of foie gras, oozing creamy and nutty flavours, with blackberry sauce and madeira jus pooling at the bottom of the plate. The salty sear on the duck is near perfect, matching well with the cured sweetness of the blackberry. Another new classic.
Dinner ends with the baked Alaska (HKD228). I was impressed with the majority of the meal, yet let down by the finale. The cherry and pistachio ice creams inside the meringue blend together for a confusing flavour profile. The rum, dressed all over the dessert for the tableside fire show, sits at the bottom and isn’t pleasant to taste with its strong aroma.
Our verdict of Jimmy’s Kitchen
Out with the old royal red and gold interior, the new Jimmy’s Kitchen is an embrace of the classics in a more refined and modern setting. The seasoned Jimmy’s favourites shine on the menu, alongside new creations by chef Russell that boast strong salty, sweet, and savoury flavours.
Jimmy’s Kitchen, M/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, 2526 5293, book here
| Order this: Angus beef mince on toast, house-cured salmon gravlax, chicken supreme Kiev, seared duck breast Menu: Jimmy’s Kitchen menus Price for two: HKD700–1,100 | Atmosphere: regal and classic, with a spray of modern influence throughout Perfect for: trips down nostalgia road for a taste of both history and new flavours by a skilled chef |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
